From the Pantry: Summer Herbs

By Christina Fleisch

There’s nothing quite like the feeling of late summer, when the trees are lush and the sun warmed air drapes over you like a blanket. You come back from the garden with a tattered sun hat resting on your head and a basket hanging from the crook of your arm, filled with the day’s freshest picks: bright red tomatoes, large zucchinis, the last of the season’s blueberries, and on top of it all, bunches of freshly picked herbs–handfuls of mint to muddle into a glass of ice-cold sweet tea, basil leaves to layer into tomato sandwiches, and sprigs full of thyme to stir into cake batters and bread doughs.

There are so many different varieties of herbs to choose from, so how do you know which to use? Basil has more than 15 varieties, but the three most common are Genovese, sweet basil, and purple Thai or lemon basil. Sweet basil looks slightly different than Genovese, but they’re very similar in flavor. Both varieties pair well with tomatoes, blueberries, and pine nuts. Thai basil has a zingy, lemony flavor, making it better suited for baking with citrus. Oregano is best known as Greek oregano, with its rich, peppery scent that brings you straight back to your favorite pizzeria. Mexican oregano is part of the verbena family, giving it a lemony aroma. Thyme has common, English, lemon, and French varieties. Common thyme and English thyme are almost identical, with the only noticeable difference being in the shape of their leaves. French thyme is sweeter, milder, and a little more tender than its counterparts. Lemon thyme, as the name suggests, has a distinct citrus scent and flavor. All varieties of thyme can be used interchangeably, but lemon thyme will undoubtedly elevate your baking with its unique flavor.

Much like basil, mint has countless varieties, but the two used most in baking are peppermint and spearmint. The former is high in menthol, with a distinct peppery aroma. It’s most used in sweet treats we typically associate with the holidays, pairing well with chocolate and coffee flavors. Spearmint is the most common culinary mint and complements many fruits, chocolate, and vanilla. A bit less common but particularly delicious is chocolate mint, which has a subtle cocoa fragrance and dark brown stems, and fruity-scented apple mint is perfect for teas. Cuban mint is better known as mojito mint due to its use in cocktails.

Whether you dedicate a plot in your outdoor garden or line your windowsill with small pots, growing and harvesting your fresh herbs is an easy way to ensure you always have the ingredients you need on hand, no matter the time of year. Most herbs, such as thyme, rosemary, and parsley, can be harvested as soon as they produce leaves. Others, such as basil and cilantro, must be at least 6 inches tall before harvesting so the plant will continue to grow.

When harvesting herbs, keep a few simple rules in mind. It’s best to snip herbs in the cooler morning air. You should also harvest your herbs often enough so they don’t bolt, or flower and bloom. Basil and chives tend to bolt quickly during the late summer months, and pruning the buds encourages the plant to continue to produce new leaves and extend its growing time. Tender herbs such as basil, dill, parsley, and cilantro can be harvested by the leaf or by the stem. Twiggy or woody herbs, including oregano, rosemary, and thyme, should be snipped at the stem. You can use the leaves and stems of tender herbs. To quickly strip leaves off woody stems, run your fingers along the stem against the direction the leaves are growing.

If you’re not planning to use your harvested herbs right away, they will easily keep fresh for several days when properly stored. Add basil, mint, parsley, cilantro, and other leafy herbs to a small jar of water and keep it on your countertop; refrigeration isn’t needed, and in the case of basil, the deep chill will cause the leaves to turn black and rot. On the other hand, sturdy oregano, rosemary, thyme, and the like are best kept by loosely wrapping them in a damp paper towel and then refrigerating them in a partially sealed plastic bag or container.A perennially favorite way of using herbs is to make flavored butters to slather on all your fresh bakes. Simply stir a few tablespoons of any single or combination of herbs you like into a stick of softened butter until it’s well combined. Refrigerate it in an airtight container, or you can shape it into a log on a piece of plastic wrap and freeze it for longer storage. You can also freeze plain chopped fresh herbs for future use; add herbs to the wells of ice cube trays or mini muffin cups, and fill with just enough water to cover the herbs. Once frozen solid, transfer the herb cubes to a resealable plastic bag and freeze. Just drain off the water from the thawed herbs to bake and cook with however you like.

If you gravitate to the sweet side, try flavored simple syrups. In a saucepan, bring equal parts water, granulated sugar, and fresh herbs to a low boil, stirring occasionally until the sugar dissolves. Remove from the heat, and let the herbs steep as the syrup cools completely. Strain the syrup into a resealable jar, and refrigerate it for 2 to 3 weeks. Brush the syrup onto warm cakes and breads for moisture, and stir it into your drinks.Drying herbs is an excellent way to ensure you have a year-round supply, and it’s so easy. Wash your herbs well, spread them in a single layer on clean dishcloths, and let them dry completely. Strip the leaves off the stems, and arrange them in a single layer on baking sheets; you don’t need to spray or line the pans with anything as long as the herbs are completely dry (moisture will make them stick). Place the pans in a 200°F (93°C) oven until they are dry and brittle. It could happen as quickly as 30 to 45 minutes or as long as 1 to 1½ hours, depending on the herb, but the time is less important than ensuring the herbs are completely dried out. Once cooled, use your fingers to crumble the leaves into small bits, and store them in an airtight container for up to a year.

There’s no right or wrong way when it comes to using fresh herbs in baking and cooking—it’s all a matter of your personal taste and preference. As you look out into your garden at the verdant leaves of your herbs, take inspiration from knowing there is no limit to how you can bake them your own.

Fresh or Dried

To substitute dried herbs for fresh, use one-third of the amount.

So, 1 tablespoon fresh = 1 teaspoon dried.

Bake with Herbs

Ready to bake with the herbs from your garden? Indulge in these delectable sweet and savory herb-filled treats.

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