Brandy and Cognac Trends for 2024
What goes up must come down, and that’s been the case with the brandy and Cognac category. After consumers stocked up on the spirits during the pandemic, many have pulled back. Volume consumption for the brandy and Cognac category declined 10.2% in 2023 to pre-Covid levels of 12.8 million 9-liter cases, according the Beverage Information Group 2024 Liquor Handbook.
In addition to intense competition from tequila, domestic whiskey and the ready-to-drink (RTD) segments, brandy and Cognac had to contend with economic pressures, as inflation put a crimp in some discretionary spending. This affected the pricier Cognac in particular. Just one of the leading brands, Sazerac’s Paul Masson brandy, posted growth in 2023, and that was a scant 0.3%
Despite the category’s unfavorable market conditions, Cognac, in particular, is a staple on bar menus around the country, says Marina Velez, research director for The Beverage Information Group. Unlike brandy, which can be made anywhere, Cognac must be produced in a specific geographic area of France, from certain types of white grapes and has different aging requirements depending on the classification, which gives the spirit cachet — and a higher price tag.
“The new generation of bartenders draws inspiration from the distilled wine spirit’s timelessness, versatility and range to create Cognac cocktails,” Velez says. “Mixologists recognize Cognac’s value as a specific flavor component and play with its different expressions and ages.”
At the new Riff Raff Room in Virgin Hotels New York’s NoMad neighborhood, brandy “isn’t flying off the shelf via individual pours, but guests are enjoying plenty of it through cocktails,” says beverage director Charles Joly. The Riff Raff Room carries a mix of Cognac, American brandy, pisco, Applejack and several vintage Cognacs dating back to 1914, he says. “We have a pretty tight backbar space, so we need to be somewhat tight on inventory.”
“Brandy isn’t flying off the shelf via individual pours, but guests are enjoying plenty of it through cocktails,” says Charles Joly, beverage director of The Riff Raff Room in New York.
Vodka, gin and whiskey remain crowd favorites at Travelle Bar in The Langham Chicago hotel, but “brandy plays a key role in shaping many of our most celebrated cocktails — both classic and contemporary twists,” says lead mixologist Joy Rivas. “Known for its versatility, brandy brings more than just tradition to the glass. Its rich fruit notes, smooth warmth and hints of oak and spice add depth and sophistication to every sip.”
During the past year, the Cognac category has stabilized and returned to pre-pandemic consumption levels before the spikes of 2020 and 2021, says Jennifer Pisciotta, global vice president of marketing at D’Ussé. “While economic factors including inflation are playing a role in this dynamic, we’re also seeing consumers gravitate toward lighter spirits that are perceived as more mixable like tequila.”
Cognac has also been impacted by continued destocking and decreases in disposable income in recent years, she notes.
The vast majority of D’Ussé’s volume comes from the off-premise, “but we’re accelerating our on-premise efforts in line with our cocktail strategy featuring the D’UssÉspresso Martini and the D’Ussé Spicy Sidecar,” says Pisciotta. “Our relationships with the trade have always been important to us, and we’re looking to strengthen them even further this year as we aim to underscore our versatility and expand the occasionality of D’Ussé.”
Fruity and floral flavors
Travelle Bar’s brandy offerings include calvados fruit brandies from France, Rhine Hall American craft brandies and six Cognacs, as well as Singani 63 and Barsol pisco from South America. “These brandies offer a wide range of flavors — from orchard fruits and delicate florals to oak, spice and caramel — perfect for sipping neat or as the backbone of expertly crafted cocktails,” Rivas says.
D’Ussé Cognac has been accelerating on-premise efforts with cocktails such as the D’Ussé Spicy Sidecar.
“While Hennessy and Pierre Ferrand remain popular and frequently requested by our guests, we are seeing an exciting shift toward pisco and Calvados in cocktail culture,” she adds. “These distinctive expressions bring fresh perspectives to the bar, attracting both adventurous cocktail enthusiasts and those seeking something beyond the traditional.”
Pisco, with its floral aromatics and smooth, bright character, adds elegance and complexity to cocktails, Rivas explains. “Its versatility shines in both refreshing classics like the Pisco Sour and in innovative concoctions that highlight seasonal ingredients.”
Calvados, with its orchard fruit base, offers apple-forward flavors balanced by oak and spice, making it ideal for autumnal cocktails and nuanced twists on classics. “Guests appreciate how Calvados enhances body and adds complexity to drinks, whether served in a simple highball or a reimagined Old Fashioned,” says Rivas.
When it comes to brandy, it’s all about the quality of the fruit, says Draga Culic, founder/CEO of Blacklisted Brandy. The line of brandies from Serbia launched in the U.S. this past February with four expressions: Heirloom Apricot, Heirloom Pear, Heirloom Quince and Aged Heirloom Plum.
“You want to use the best fruit possible because if the fruit is not being used at peak harvest or ripeness, it shows in the end product,” Culic says. Peak ripeness makes the natural sugars shine through.”
Those complex fruit flavors on the palate helps make a delicious cocktail, she adds. “This is why fruit forwardness is key for making a brandy stand out, because the beauty of the spirit doesn’t need to be covered up with a bunch of other ingredients.”
Mixing it up
Depending on the brandy, it may show more fruit or have more influence from aging, Joly says. That makes a different in how you use it in cocktails. “I’ve always loved to split base spirits, allowing each to contribute different attributes to a cocktail. Even something as simple as a classic Sazerac; I enjoy this with a split base of higher proof rye with spice and tannins along with a Cognac that introduces baked fruit and roundness.”
“Brandy plays a key role in shaping many of our most celebrated cocktails—both classic and contemporary twists,”
–Joy Rivas, lead mixologist at Travelle Bar in Chicago
Joly created the 1912 cocktail as an homage to the great drinks that were born in New Orleans. “I asked myself what my take on a stirred sipper may be in that era and came up this,” which is rye whiskey, Pierre Ferrand slightly overproof 1840 Cognac, Cherry Heering, absinthe, coffee and cherry bitters. The Riff Raff Room also offers a Wisconsin Brandy Old Fashioned using Copper & King’s Brandy.
The bartenders at Travelle Bar approach brandy and Cognac with precision and restraint, Rivas says, using ingredients and techniques that highlight the spirit’s smoothness, fruit notes and oak complexity. “The key is finding balance — enhancing the spirit’s natural flavors without overpowering them, resulting in cocktails that feel refined, nuanced and luxurious.”
Brandy cocktails include the Forbidden Fruit ($25), which highlights Daron Calvados as one of the split-base spirits, amplifying the drink’s crisp orchard essence. “The Calvados harmonizes with rum, adding depth and warmth, while absinthe introduces subtle herbal complexity with hints of anise,” Rivas says.
Memento ($25) is a refined Martini that balances fruity aromatics without leaning into sweetness. “This cocktail features Singani 63 as part of its split-base, bringing delicate floral notes and a bright, fruity character to complement the juicy peach flavors,” Rivas says. “The result is a refreshing, spirit-forward drink with a crisp, clean finish — perfect for those who appreciate elegance and subtle complexity.”
Travelle Bar plans to unveil some innovative cocktails featuring brandy and Cognac on its upcoming menu, creations that blend tradition with unexpected twists, Rivas says. For example, the Crimson and Clover Club is playful reimagining of the classic Clover Club cocktail.
“This version uses pisco as the base spirit with gin for seasoning, creating a vibrant yet balanced profile,” she explains. “At its heart is a luscious and exotic syrup — a secret blend of red berries, cinnamon, coconut, and rose petals — bringing layers of sweetness and complexity to each sip.”
Cognac Culture
Consumer preferences and tastes for Cognac have changed over the years, but Martell Cognac brand director Cheryl Cavanaugh says that producers have done a good job in revitalizing the spirit’s image by leaning into culture and embracing mixology. This approach will continue to broaden the appeal of Cognac, particularly among younger audiences.
“As an example, Martell has prioritized high profile music festival activations in partnership with LiveNation and AEG, driving trial and consideration among the next generation of drinkers,” says Cavanaugh.
“Our festival footprint is designed to break down perceptions that Cognac isn’t a versatile spirit and highlight the innovative nature of Martell’s DNA,” she continues. “We created spaces that infused tech with music and cocktails, featuring brainwave scans fueled by AI that transformed festivalgoers’ thoughts into digital art in real time and matched them to a recommended cocktail, underscoring category disruption.”
Cognac has a long history and tradition, but still stays current by producers continuing to innovate their expressions, says bartender and cognac educator Ms. Franky Marshall. She attributes Cognac properties to the “skillful blending of eau-de-vies, (most Cognacs are blends, but not all), the careful selection of barrels, the choice of aging cellars in order to find the perfect balance that lets the fruit and terroir shine through, and patience. Making great Cognac takes time, so you need a lot of patience.”
As Cognac education and awareness continue, “I think that consumer and industry interest in the category will keep growing,” Marshall says. “And I’m sure that the category as a whole will continue to evolve in many exciting ways.”
Additional reporting by Krystina Skibo.
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