From the Pantry: Semolina
There are those ingredients so intimately tied to their place of origin that I love grouping them together in my pantry. It’s like having a little culinary world map, making everything much easier to find. Plus, there’s the added delight of seeing the beautiful packaging—Italy’s offerings are always the most captivating.
A bunch of dried oregano flowers from Calabria hangs upside down from a small hook next to stout bags of Tipo “00” and semolina flours. Beautiful cans of olive oil sit beside clear packets of taralli—little bread rings from Puglia—tied up with black satin ribbon. Tiny jars of crimson Calabrian peppers and green Castelvetrano olives are stacked on top of one another, and a vintage aqua and gold tin filled with amaretti cookies sits next to a small cobalt and white jar of Amarena cherries.
I reach for the semolina flour and inhale its warm, inviting fragrance, reminding me of fresh pasta, sun-ripened wheat, and Sunday afternoons. Semolina is one of the cornerstones of southern Italy’s bold, passionate, and creative cooking. Its name, derived from the Italian word “semola,” meaning “bran,” reflects its pleasantly coarse texture and distinctive amber hue, which are reminiscent of the golden durum wheat fields of southern Italy.
Semolina is made by removing the coarse bran and germ from durum wheat. The remaining endosperm is then stone-milled and ground extra-coarse or medium, creating semolina’s distinct sandy texture. Aptly named “durum,” meaning “hard” in Latin, it’s the hardest of all wheat varieties. It is celebrated for its glorious color due to high concentrations of carotenoids and protein. Semolina contains 13% or more protein, compared to around 11% in all-purpose flour. A finer form of semolina, called durum flour or semolina rimacinata, is semolina that has been twice-milled to achieve a silky, powdery texture, closer to that of all-purpose flour. Its delicate quality lends itself to lighter, more refined desserts.
One of the gifts of semolina is that it’s versatile enough to elevate a wide range of recipes, from rustic breads to elegant cakes. It adds an unexpected complexity and wonderful depth of flavor that pairs beautifully with the chocolate in cookies. Pane Siciliano, semolina-sesame seed bread from Sicily, is truly a standout thanks to the vibrant, sunny color of semolina in the crust and crumb, along with its earthy flavor that’s accentuated by the sesame seeds. Adding semolina to the iconic Campanian pastry sfogliatelle lends structure to the filling. Its slightly nutty flavor also deepens the filling’s richness while absorbing moisture to help prevent sogginess.
Semolina works its wonders in the world of bread. Some breads are made entirely with semolina flour, like pane di Altamura from Puglia. When combined with bread or all-purpose flour, semolina adds strength and substance to doughs like focaccia or ciabatta. Adding semolina to pizza dough gives it a resplendent golden color and incredible crispness when baked. The rich protein in the flour helps create a sturdy gluten network, which is essential for the rise and shape of the bread.
Semolina’s high protein content contributes to a pasta dough that’s elastic and resilient and holds its shape beautifully when boiled. It can turn a simple blend of ingredients into a vibrant, resilient pasta dough with a delightful texture and a subtle nutty flavor.
Don’t be afraid to experiment by adding semolina to recipes that don’t typically call for it. If your recipe calls for all-purpose flour, try replacing about one-fourth of it by weight with semolina flour. This little tweak adds a lovely depth of flavor and a subtle, intriguing texture to cakes, quick breads, and cookies. It’s a small change that can make a big difference in your baking, giving your treats that extra bit of charm.
Recipes featuring semolina remind us how even the simplest ingredients can bridge different cultures with every bite. In North Africa, semolina is transformed into couscous through a gentle steaming process, creating a lovely dish that pairs perfectly with countless flavors. In South India, semolina, or rava, adds a distinct charm to savory breakfasts like upma and sweet treats like kesari. Semolina adds its unique texture and depth of flavor to aromatic desserts such as the sweet, syrup-soaked semolina cake called basbousa in the Middle East and a semolina custard cake called politiko in Greece.
Semolina adds its enticing nutty and earthy tones to kitchens across the world, including mine. Having a bag of semolina in your pantry is like possessing an unassuming yet profound magic. I am deeply comforted knowing I can create something equally reassuring and exciting from the bags, jars, and cans in my kitchen. It’s a pantry of endless possibilities.BUYING AND STORING SEMOLINA
Semolina is available at most major supermarkets in the baking supplies aisle, often next to the all-purpose flour. It can also be found at specialty Italian food markets and online. Be sure the packaging reads “semolina flour,” “extra fancy durum wheat,” or “semolina rimacinata” and is made with durum wheat. Beware of corn semolina or rice semolina, as they aren’t semolina but are called semolina for their coarse texture. Semolina will last for up to a year when stored in a cool, dark place. Keep it in the refrigerator or freezer for an even longer shelf life.
Bake with Semolina
Semolina Chocolate Chip Cookies
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