Why Wine Service Sucks Right Now (but Doesn’t Have To)

There’s been a ton of chatter lately about how wine service, especially in NYC, is kind of a mess right now. And honestly? It can suck, with subpar hospitality and stodgy, outdated attitudes. But there are still some gems out there with top-tier service.

So what’s actually going on with wine service right now? Let’s dig in.

The ‘Only the Somm Can Touch the Wine’ Rule

Plenty of people have been frustrated by restaurants where ONLY the sommelier is allowed to talk about, open, or even look at the wine. But why do places do this? Simple: The somms are the ones who actually know the wine. They know where it’s stored, what it tastes like, and what it pairs with. Sometimes, it’s literally the only job they have on the floor.

Now, if a guest is lost in a giant wine list and needs guidance, having a somm step in is great. Sure, it might slow things down a bit, but in the end, ideally, the guest gets what they want. The real issue? When a guest knows exactly what they want but has to wait for the somm to show up. Nothing is worse than a server refusing to take your order because only the somm can do it.

Friends have told me, “If they just let me order through the server, I’d have ordered another $150 bottle.” But instead, they left frustrated — and the restaurant lost money.

The solution? It’s not entirely this simple but, train the staff! Every server should have basic wine knowledge. They don’t need to be experts, but they should be able to recommend a few wines they love. If a guest knows what they want, empower the server to take the order. If a guest asks about a wine they’re unsure about, then they can call in the somm. But this rigid “only the somm can touch the wine” rule is outdated.

The ‘Snotty Wine Folk’ Problem

Unfortunately, wine snobbery is still alive and well. And it’s not just in the fine-wine world.

Case in point: I was at a natural wine bar when someone at the next table asked if they had a California Chardonnay. Instead of a polite explanation, the server very condescendingly said, “We definitely do not — we focus on natural wine.” The poor woman was so embarrassed, she ended up ordering a vodka tonic instead. A vodka tonic! At a wine bar! I felt awful for this guest, and even though the attitude wasn’t sent my way, we immediately paid our bill and left.

Here’s the thing: If you don’t carry something, that’s fine. But there’s a way to say it without making people feel stupid. “We don’t have that, but let me find something similar that you might love!” Boom. Easy. No attitude required.

The ‘No Clue What’s on the List’ Issue

On the flip side, some wine bars have the opposite problem: The staff doesn’t know anything about the wines they’re selling.

A friend was at a wine bar recently and asked for a bottle of big, rich red. The server brought out a Chilean País, a Beaujolais-Villages, and a 10.5 percent Blaufränkisch. Not one of those fits the description. My friend politely declined those options and instead ordered something they knew they would like: a beer. At another spot where the wines were displayed without descriptions, no one working could explain a single bottle.

This isn’t on the servers — it’s on management. Staff training is essential. Yes, hiring is tough, and owners are stretched thin. But if you’re running a wine-focused business, investing in staff education will make your service faster, your guests happier, and your bottom line healthier.

The Fix: Smarter Training & Empowered Staff

Here’s the game plan for better wine service:

Train the entire staff, not just the somm. Servers should have a few go-to wines they love and can confidently recommend.
Teach staff to read the room. Not every guest wants the entire backstory of a wine. Some people love hearing about the volcanic soil and the winemaker’s near-death experience with pesticides. Others? They just want a glass of red.
Empower staff to sell. One server at LaLou had three light reds at different price points that she adored — and she sold them constantly because she had the knowledge and confidence to do so. And because she genuinely loved the wines, the guests would perk up at her enthusiasm.

At the end of the day, great wine service doesn’t need to be about certifications and pins and other serious credentials. It’s about knowledge, hospitality, and making guests feel welcome — whether they’re ordering a $300 Burgundy or a simple glass of Chardonnay.

The article Why Wine Service Sucks Right Now (but Doesn’t Have To) appeared first on VinePair.