Experts Weigh In On Wines By The Glass
What makes a wine a good choice to offer by the glass? It depends somewhat, but most wine and beverage directors agree on a few things.
“A wine that is thoughtfully offered by the glass should be intriguing, versatile in its food pairings, and exhibit a well-rounded character,” says Lauren Clark, beverage manager and sommelier at The Americano in Atlanta. “It should come from a notable producer, showcasing quality and craftsmanship that resonate with discerning palates.”
Considering that most people choose a restaurant because of the cuisine, “wines that complement the dishes on the menu are easy for servers to offer and can elevate the overall dining experience,” says Lindsey Fern, director of wine at The Inn at Little Washington in Washington, VA. “I also like to feature more boutique wineries when I’m able to, because it creates the opportunity to engage with the guest and create a memory that’s specific to your restaurant.”
Since not every guest is going to order a bottle, the selection of wines by the glass has to have enough variety to stand up to the food, says Maurice DiMarino, sommelier at Casa Gabriela Mexican restaurant in San Diego. “It is also good to use grape varietals that are not prone to oxidation, as open bottles can lead to an undesired pour.”
You also don’t want any (or very many) surprises on your by-the-glass list, says Winn Roberton, lead sommelier at Bourbon Steak DC. “Since we are a high-volume restaurant, I want both my staff and our guests to be confident in selling/ordering a glass of wine.” If or when they may be pouring a more esoteric selection, “the staff must understand what the wine is all about and know how and when to relay that info to the guest.”
Choosing the perfect by-the-glass wine is both an art and a science, says Evan Geis Panzano, assistant general manager at Panzano Italian restaurant in Denver. “It’s not just about picking a great bottle — it’s about finding a balance between taste, cost, seasonality and availability.”
What specific wines do professionals like to offer by the glass? We asked seven for their by-the-glass picks, how much they sell it for and why they chose it.
WHO: Lindsey Fern, director of wine at The Inn at Little Washington in Washington, VA.
WINE: Burn Cottage, Moonlight Race, Pinot Noir from Central Otago, New Zealand; $37 a glass.
WHY: I had heard wonderful things about Burn Cottage for years, but it wasn’t available in the state. I was determined to pour it at The Inn so I reached out to one of our distributors whose mother makes wine in NZ. I asked if he could bring it in for us.
He did and, as it turned out the owner, Marquis Sauvage, was coming to town and made a special trip to visit us. He shared that he had stayed in Chef Patrick’s house in 1997 with his family and that he had such special memories of dining here. It seemed serendipitous so I love to tell that story to guests who think they are just ordering a glass of pinot noir!
FUTURE PLANS FOR BTG WINES: It’s important to feature women-made wines whenever possible. Our wine team is comprised of primarily women (and one really patient man). I added a wine from Teneral Cellars for Women’s History month. Teneral Cellars is completely women owned and operated, and they donate 10% of their profits to organizations that empower women. And the wine is delicious!
WHO: Maurice DiMarino, sommelier at Casa Gabriela, part of San Diego’s Cohn Restaurant Group.
WINE: Txacoli white wines from Spain; $12 to 16 a glass.
WHY: This white wine, made from Hondarrabi Zuri in the Basque region of Spain, is light in body, bright in acidity and sometimes effervescent. They are great for starting off a meal and are fantastic with shellfish and ceviche. They’re also great for bubbles drinkers and sauvignon blanc lovers.
FUTURE PLANS FOR BTG WINES: This year we are looking add nonalcoholic wines to our menu. We are also adding more natural, orange and chilled red wines as we have seen an uptick in demand from consumers. I have also added wines that have some sweetness to attract new wine drinkers into the category.
Lambrusco is perfect because it is effervescent, red, sweet, but also full of fresh acidity. We have created a red wine in Baja, Costa Tierra, which hits these points. It is very ripe, juicy and we serve it chilled. Perfect for new drinkers and pairing with spicy Mexican food.
WHO: Lauren Clark, beverage manager and sommelier at The Americano in Atlanta.
WINE: Bruno Giacosa’s Dolcetto, $18 a glass.
WHY: Bruno Giacosa Dolcetto is a standout choice due to its vibrant fruit flavors and approachability, making it an excellent pairing for a variety of dishes on the menu. Produced by a legendary winery in Piedmont, this wine reflects a commitment to traditional winemaking while remaining enjoyable for everyday occasions. Its limited availability and noteworthy reputation add to its allure, appealing to both casual wine drinkers and connoisseurs alike.
The Dolcetto showcases bright, lively fruit flavors and an inviting character, making it an exceptional choice for everyday enjoyment. With its limited production and consistent acclaim from critics, Giacosa’s wines stand as both collectible treasures and a testament to Italy’s rich winemaking heritage. By successfully blending tradition with innovation, Bruno Giacosa captures the timeless essence of wine, appealing to both the contemporary enthusiast and the seasoned connoisseur.
FUTURE PLANS FOR BTG WINES: I am thrilled to announce the introduction of the Coravin [wine preservation] system to our by-the-glass program. This innovative tool will enable us to present a remarkable selection of exceptional wines, enhancing our tasting menus and broadening our offerings.
WHO: Gracie Barwick, wine director and lead sommelier at Lazy Betty in Atlanta.
WINE: Taittinger Rosé Champagne; $45 for a 5-oz. pour.
WHY: It can stand up to every course on our chef’s tasting menu. I also feature a Spanish producer that is lesser known, AT Roca, who makes a natural sparkling rosé at a very approachable price.
FUTURE PLANS FOR BTG WINES: I plan on changing the by-the-glass options more often and featuring more producers with hard-to-get or small production wines. At our level of service, our staff is able to keep up with the education and changes, and our regular guests shouldn’t be looking at the same menu or wines by the glass every other week. It’s also important to give the smaller winemakers the exposure at a Michelin-starred restaurant.
WHO: Amanda Merchant, bar manager at French-inspired Le Rêve Restaurant & Raw Bar in Sheridan, WY.
WINE: The Daou Pessimist red blend; $17 for a 6-oz. pour, $22 for a 9-oz. pour.
WHY: Its bold, full-bodied character pairs beautifully with many dishes at Le Rêve, from hearty beef selections to charcuterie and aged cheeses, making it a versatile and delicious choice.
FUTURE PLANS FOR BTG WINES: We’re rolling out a new BTG menu soon, and I’m thrilled to offer our guests a mix of both familiar favorites and exciting new options.
WHO: Evan Geis Panzano, assistant general manager at Panzano in Denver.
WINE: Michele Chiarlo “Il Principe,” $16 a glass.
WHY: From the Langhe region in Piemonte, this wine is 100% nebbiolo. The pale garnet color is met with a cherry nose with tasting notes of plum and cinnamon. The tannins are soft and really round out the wine with decent acidity.
This wine pairs excellently with our Wild Boar and Elk Bolognese. Il Principe translates from Italian to the prince. Also from the region of Piemonte is the world-famous Barolo, which is also 100% nebbiolo. Barolo is known as the king of wines, thus making this the prince.
FUTURE PLANS FOR BTG WINES: As Denver warms up, we will add additional whites and rosés to the menu. We also do two seasonal menu changes, so pairing appropriately is also needed when we return to our winter menu.
WHO: Winn Roberton, lead sommelier at Bourbon Steak DC.
WINE: The 2020 Graeme & Julie Bott Saint Joseph syrah; $41 for a 5-oz. glass.
WHY: This wine is 100% syrah, whose notes of meat, smoke, pepper and olive treat our wood-fired steaks so well. The 2020 vintage from most of Europe is drinking outstandingly well right now with ripe fruit and easy tannin structure.
Also a great story, Graeme (from New Zealand) and Julie (French) met while working internships at another Rhone winery, fell in love and started making wine in a garage before recently opening a real winery facility.
FUTURE PLANS FOR BTG WINES: As the weather continues to warm, a lighter red or two will find its way to the program. Also, looking forward to sourcing and pouring some higher-end Bordeaux with some bottle age. And as always, local wines (Virginia and Maryland) have a spot on the list.
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