How to Properly Use High-Proof Spirits in Cocktails

In order for a liquid to qualify as a “spirit” in the U.S., it must contain at least 40 percent ABV, and most brands hit that target proof without going over. Even though spirits tend to come off of their respective stills at a much higher strength, distillers will proof them down to achieve a consistent flavor profile between batches and stretch their stocks. In some ways, the phenomenon is a win-win-win for producers and consumers alike. But in recent years, drinkers have grown fond of bottlings that inch into higher-octane territory, and spirits brands are heeding the call.

Whether we’re talking about navy-strength gin, cask-strength whiskey, still-strength tequilas, or overproof rums, there are more options to indulge in uncut versions of the spirits we love than ever before. Since these expressions generally aren’t diluted with water, they’re not only strong in alcohol content but more concentrated than their counterparts in flavor and texture. As such, their rich profiles can carry over to cocktails, allowing bartenders to showcase these spirits in their purest form. But the issue with higher alcohol contents is that making balanced cocktails can get a bit dicey. It’s not as simple as doing a one-to-one swap with an 80-proof spirit in a pre-existing recipe.

So how do bartenders use higher-proof spirits in cocktails without dishing up bird baths of booze? We talked to three industry vets to get some tips.

Maintaining Balance Without Overserving

There are exceptions to the rule, but most cocktails call for two ounces of a base spirit. However, that often changes when working with high-proof expressions.

“It’s rarely a 1:1 swap,” says Katie O’Kane, owner of Gussie’s and The Hippo in Raleigh, N.C. “The direct swap usually results in an unbalanced cocktail.”

For example, New York Distilling Company produces Perry’s Tot Gin, a navy-strength expression that clocks in at 57 percent ABV. On the brand’s website, there are a number of cocktail recipes that all call for just one and a half ounces of Perry’s Tot.

“At one and a half ounces, it’s a reasonable amount of alcohol for a drink, but you’re still able to retain and hone in on the unique flavor attributes of the gin,” owner and distiller Allen Katz says. “Conceptually, with overproof spirits, you can reasonably dilute it with other modifiers and retain the profound flavor of the spirit in the finished drink even at lower doses. I absolutely find that the flavor in a cocktail stays concentrated, and that’s been born out of almost 15 years of making cocktails with Perry’s.”

But bartenders don’t always dial down high proof spirits in cocktails. It all depends on the specific spirit, what role it plays in a given drink, and what other ingredients might be at play. At New York’s Dutch Kills, the team has one cocktail on the menu that uses two ounces of cask-strength Weller bourbon, and also a frozen Irish Coffee that only contains one ounce of J.J. Corry cask- strength Irish whiskey.

“With the J.J. Corry, we use less of it because it has so much flavor. It’s a really unique style, and its flavor is still very present even with just one ounce,” head bartender Jason Kilgore says. “At the end of the day, it depends on the cocktail, and it’s all about what tastes best. That’s what we’re looking for.”

“If you’re using a spirit as more of a modifier for complexity and to balance other strong flavors, I don’t find dilution to be as much of an issue.”

Because these spirits are so strong in flavor (and alcohol content), applying any more than two ounces in a cocktail can be a slippery slope. Not only will the spirit likely dominate all the other components, but bars then run the risk of overserving their guests.

“We’re always trying to serve people responsibly, whether that’s with cocktails or neat pours,” Katz says. “With higher-proof spirits, you have to pay extra attention to measurements. If you’re going to do a free pour, there’s the likelihood that you’re going to unintentionally over-pour.”

Dealing With Dilution

Dilution is one of the biggest factors to consider when balancing cocktails. Since standard 80-proof spirits are already cut with water, often a little extra dilution is necessary to temper higher-proof expressions. To ensure that the texture and consistency of the spirit don’t get compromised, the bartender may need to dial up other ingredients to compensate for dilution. It’s always a case-by-case basis.

“With certain drinks, you do want to have it sit on ice for a longer time,” Kilgore says. “But sometimes, you have a flavorful ingredient in there that’s helping to temper the proof without losing consistency. A recipe that normally calls for a bar spoon of Demerara syrup might get upped to a quarter-ounce, and then less dilution is needed.”

“If the spirit is over 50 percent alcohol, it’s going to have a lot of flavor but also a lot of burn. Try it with a little water added to it.”

Less viscous ingredients, like citrus juice or coffee, need to be accounted for as part of the dilution itself. At Dutch Kills, Kilgore and his team consider the cold brew in the bar’s frozen Irish Coffee as a diluting agent, so less actual water needs to go into the cocktail.

Some bartenders, like O’Kane, will even use high-proof spirits in scant amounts as modifiers to emphasize a particular part of a cocktail’s overall profile. In these cases, extra dilution is often negligible. “If you’re using a spirit as more of a modifier for complexity and to balance other strong flavors, I don’t find dilution to be as much of an issue,” she says.

Get Familiar With the Spirit, but Don’t Get Too Attached to One Expression

With so much variation in potency and profile between different high-proof spirits — and cocktails in general — finding the balance in a drink always requires a bit of tinkering and tasting. At the end of the day, getting familiar with a particular expression is paramount.

“If the spirit is over 50 percent alcohol, it’s going to have a lot of flavor but also a lot of burn,” Kilgore says. “Try it with a little water added to it. Try it over ice and see how it sits before you start jumping into using it in a cocktail. Take your time and get to know the spirit.”

This step becomes even more important when dealing with single-barrel expressions, as the spirit’s profile will differ slightly from barrel to barrel. “On the whiskey front, when you’re working with single barrels, you’re tasting the attributes of just one barrel,” Katz explains. “There may be kissing cousins in other barrels, but each one is singularly unique.”

On that note, many brands release high-proof expressions as one-offs or limited runs. Although said spirits may make a great cocktail, once they’re out of stock, they’re gone for good.

“I’m a big fan of being able to come back and get the same drink at a bar,” Kilgore says. “But I also love going out and experiencing something fantastic that I’m not going to be able to replicate or have another time. So for me, the disadvantage of using limited-edition high-proof spirits comes down to supply and demand.”

The article How to Properly Use High-Proof Spirits in Cocktails appeared first on VinePair.