Beer, Martinis, and Jenever in Amsterdam

I see the city of Amsterdam rising up out of the ground before me, the city coming to life before my very eyes.

No, I didn’t take a walk to the Red Light district before this, and no, I’m not on any number of mind-altering drugs the area famously offers.

I’m actually watching a projection in a cavernous room inside the city’s Heineken Experience, an interactive museum and brewery that the homegrown beer brand opened up in what was its very first headquarters. If you can picture in your mind a sort-of Disney World for beer lovers, that’s exactly what this is like. Along the way, I’ve learned about the hops, barley and malt that make up the beloved beer which was born in this very city in this very building in 1867.

I’ve never been to Amsterdam, and before arriving, my only knowledge of the European metropolis consisted of the fact that it was once the home of Vincent Van Gogh. I also knew about the picturesque canals that run through the city, alongside the infamous aforementioned Red Light District. So, when I arrive at the sleek Schiphol Airport and make my way to the center of the city, my eyes are wide open even though I just flew in on a red eye flight from the States.

As I travel around, it’s clear that Heineken rules this city. Its distinctive green logo emblazoned with a red star is absolutely everywhere (that star stemmed from a long-ago beer competition the beer company once won, by the way). Another fun fact: if you look closely, the middle “e” on the label is slightly eschewed, and I learn it’s called a “smiling e.” But even the swank hotel I’m staying in, the Hotel D’Leurope, is run by the Heineken family. Needless to say, in Amsterdam, ice cold Heinekens are a staple at every bar. Sometimes, one could say they’re even Hiding in Plain Sight, the name of one of the city’s most popular watering holes. In addition to beer, Amsterdam also prides itself on Jenever liquor (a local specialty), as well as Ketel One, which is actually from Holland, the Netherland’s next-door neighbor. Close enough! I’m thirsty enough to try them all.

I grab a Stroopwafel (a local snack that costs of a thin, pressed waffle-like cookie sandwiched around a layer of luscious caramel) and make my way to the aforementioned Heineken Experience, which is a fast for the tastebuds, as well as eyes (the aforementioned city-growing theatrical experience) and ears (thanks to the bumpin’ music heard on the rooftop). Speaking of the roof, up there lies the unique bar, Heineken Studio. It’s an experimental hub with cityscape views which boast frosty glasses of the beer (and its non-alcoholic counterpart, Heineken 0.0).

They also boast innovations, which are thought up at the beer company’s newly renovated headquarters and factory about 45 minutes away. When I visited the Studio bar, I was offered a bespoke anise-flavored foam to top my beer glass. The creaminess, the unique taste, which reminds me of Sambuca, nicely matches the beer and the whole shebang reminds one of a foamy shandy.

From the roof, I look out onto the city and take stock of everything on my to-do list. That includes visits to the Van Gogh Museum and to the Anne Frank House, two of the city’s most popular destinations. The city itself is in a celebratory mood this year, considering it’s celebrating its 750th anniversary. Incredible, as it doesn’t look a day over 600!

One night, I make my way up a long staircase to the top floor of Jansz, which bills itself as a modern Dutch restaurant and serves favorites like duck pâté, sourdough bread, and a juicy chicken breast drizzled with a truffle jus. I order cocktails and first, we’re told of a strict no-cocktail rule for upstairs. But after some pleading, the Ketel One dirty martinis start coming fast and furious, the cool brininess pairs nicely with the fancy Dutch food. By the end of the night, I make my way back to the D’Leurope and grab a seat at the hotel’s beloved Freddy’s Bar, the acclaimed watering hole which is aptly named after Fred Heineken. It was his grandfather, Gerard, who founded the beer company. Freddy’s is also known for Kopstootje, which is essentially a regional boilermaker. But under the low lights of the warm bar, I order another Heineken and make my way to my room.

Aside from the Van Gogh Museum itself, Amsterdam is also home to the sprawling Rijksmuseum, which I visited after failing to make a reservation in advance to the sold-out Van Gogh. Luckily, the Rijks was located next door and the day I visited, it boasted an array of Van Goghs as well, including an instantly recognizable self-portrait as well one installment of his series of paintings of golden-hued wheat fields. I contemplate the art afterwards by taking a long walk and scarfing down a thick and delicious apple pie topped with whipped cream from local landmark Winkel 43.

That night I find myself back by the museum, dining at its Michelin star restaurant, aptly dubbed RIJKS. Amid delicately prepared courses of yellow gazpacho, Redfish, and Dutch char, the waiter catches wind that I’ve never had the pleasure of tasting Jenever, the beloved local liquor which has been around since the 13th century and is regarded as gin’s forefather. Wanting to introduce a possible new fan, he then proceeds to bring out multiple bottles of Jenever under his arms with respective tulip-shaped tasting glasses. We have the full spectrum of the Juniper-flavored libation, from typical brands to rarer finds. A new fan has been minted, indeed. I’ll order up another, please.

I walk back for one final night in the Dutch city and everything I’ve experienced is swirling in my head, from the museums and art to the beer and martinis. And yes, the Jenever is swirling in my head, too. Before I head to bed, I order one more frothy Heineken at Freddy’s and bid Amsterdam goodnight.