Before Mount Etna became the darling of the Sicilian wine scene, there was Nero d’Avola.
The indigenous red variety was all but synonymous with Sicilian wine — robust, reliable, usually inexpensive, and widely available. Since it was (and is) grown throughout the island, there was no shortage of it, and plenty to export. It had buzz in the United States.
Nowadays, Nero d’Avola shares the Sicilian wine stage with Etna Rossos and Etna Biancos, which have gained well-deserved international prominence.
But it’s time to reconsider Nero d’Avola — the “black grape of Avola,” the town in southeast Sicily for which it is named — based on my tasting of almost two dozen of the wines.
Whereas Etna Rossos, made primarily from the Nerello Mascalese grape, are light in color and Pinot Noir– or Grenache-like with their red fruit notes and medium weight, Nero d’Avolas are bigger, darker, and more suited to hearty meats and red-sauce dishes.
I used to think of them as fairly coarse fruit bombs that sometimes landed clumsily on the palate. Today, many of them are more refined and elegant, and the best of them are almost effortless to drink.
Nero d’Avola is grown in a variety of soils, including those rich in limestone that produce wines with generous acidity, and clay soils that can yield more intense flavors. The wines can be enjoyed while young or can age and develop for a number of years. Many, if not most, are made from grapes grown organically, which is conducive to Sicily’s hot, dry climate. The wines are typically labeled under the broad “Sicilia” denomination.
Versatile and affordable — the wines I sampled ranged from about $10 to $30 — they’re well worth having on hand as crowd-pleasing, accessible red wines with their ripe and deep red and dark fruits, slightly chewy texture, and good complexity. Thinking ahead, Nero d’Avolas have Thanksgiving written all over them; they won’t be intimidated by turkey, gravy, or all the side dishes. And they’ll easily take a slight chill to make them more refreshing.
Here are eight of the best Nero d’Avolas from Sicily:
With its considerable complexity, this $20 wine shows the inherent value of many Nero d’Avolas. As you swirl it in the glass, it opens up to reveal ripe strawberry and raspberry aromas and flavors, along with hints of eucalyptus, coffee, and graphite. The wine is punctuated by a nice mineral thread.
Price: $20
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This Nero d’Avola is grapey and delicious, with dark plum and blackberry fruit notes, a touch of orange peel, and mineral and saline hints. Made from organic grapes and aged in stainless steel and large oak barrels, the wood influence is minimal, making the fruit the star of this wine. Consider it instead of Chianti Classicos. (The ‘22 vintage is available here.)
Price: $22
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This widely available Nero d’Avola has aromas of raspberry, strawberry, and violets. The bright fruit continues on the palate with hints of leather and milk chocolate, all framed by a firm tannic structure.
Price: $20
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With smooth tannins and a combination of bright red fruit and cassis flavors, this well-balanced Nero d’Avola is medium-bodied with hints of cocoa and espresso.
Price: $19
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This earthy wine shows dark fruit aromas and flavors, but it’s the accents that make it complex and distinctive: forest floor, herbs, white pepper, and eucalyptus. (The ‘21 vintage is available here.)
Price: $19
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Made by the Canicatti cooperative, this wine is a fantastic $9 bargain that almost demands a case buy. Aged in concrete tanks, it shows raspberry and fig notes with hints of earth and cedar. With its good structure and a nice tannin “chewiness,” it drinks well above its price tag.
Price: $9
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Another top-value Nero d’Avola, this one is on the dark-fruit side with blackberry and cassis aromas and flavors. Touches of fig, garden herbs, black licorice, and milk chocolate round out the profile. It has just enough tannic structure to keep it from being a “soft” wine.
Price: $11
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Nero d’Avola is sometimes blended with other varieties, as in this excellent lighter wine made from 70 percent Frappato, another indigenous grape, and 30 percent Nero d’Avola. It’s full of red and dark berry aromas and flavors, including cherry, strawberry, and boysenberry, along with floral and mineral notes and lively acidity. The wine is made from organic grapes and aged in concrete tanks for six months.
Price: $32
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The article 8 of the Best Nero d’Avolas From Sicily appeared first on VinePair.