Malbec from Argentina is one of the great wine success stories of the last few decades, so much so that few people realize that the red variety is originally from the south of France, where it is the main grape of Cahors and a minor player in Bordeaux.
As Malbec came to define Argentine wine, with a broad range of styles and price points, all but lost was the fact that Argentina also produces other notable red varieties, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon.
I first became aware of this a while back when I tasted an excellent Cabernet from Fabre Montmayou, a winery founded in Mendoza in the early 1990s by Hervé Joyaux Fabre, who was born in Bordeaux and worked as a wine négociant there.
I was struck by the elegance of the wine — the deep, ripe fruit of California combined with the refinement of Bordeaux. These days, that description holds for many Argentine Cabernets. I think of them as a cross between powerful California Cabs and the more restrained Bordeaux style. Fabre is among a host of Bordeaux producers, among other outsiders, who have planted their flags in Mendoza, including the globe-trotting American winemaker Paul Hobbs.
The most important area for Cabernet is the province of Mendoza and its subzones in the west-central part of the country, which account for about three-quarters of the plantings. But notable Cabernet is also being grown elsewhere, particularly in the northern — and warmer — province of Salta, at elevations of up to 5,000 feet. Soils are generally alluvial sand, clay, and gravel with limestone in some areas.
You’ll find that Argentine Cabernets on the whole are relative bargains — considerably less expensive than most California or Bordeaux wines of similar quality. And many are ready to drink within a couple of years or so of bottling, another thing that separates them from their Bordeaux and California counterparts.
Here are six of the best Cabernet Sauvignons from Argentina.
With refreshing acidity and medium tannins, this Cabernet is drinking well now. Aromas and flavors of ripe blackberries and violets are accented by vanilla, powdered cinnamon, and a hint of bell pepper. It’s also an under-$15 bargain. The winery is in Cafayate, a sunny, high-altitude area in northern Salta.
Price: $12
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This single-vineyard Cabernet from the Uco Valley of Mendoza is striking both for its freshness and its balance, showing ripe blackberry and plum notes and a good deal of earth. Certified biodynamic, it was aged mostly in new and used French oak, but the wood influence doesn’t dominate. Winemaker Ernesto Catena, the eldest son of the pioneering Nicolas Catena Zapata, operates his own 175-acre vineyard to produce this label.
Price: $37
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This is another excellent Cabernet from Mendoza with dense, dark fruit notes and hints of milk chocolate and unsweetened cocoa. With chewy tannins and lively acidity, it’s still young but well on its way to becoming a memorable wine.
Price: $26
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From the Uco Valley of Mendoza, the grapes for this notable wine are grown in alluvial soils at an elevation of 4,000 feet. Indigenous yeasts are used in fermentation, and though the winery says only 25 percent of the wine is aged in new French oak barrels, I found the wood influence considerable. Dark berry aromas and flavors are accented by espresso and powdered chocolate notes. Firm tannins will soften with age.
Price: $30
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I would have guessed the price of this Cabernet at double what it is, given its broad complexity. It’s a relatively high-alcohol wine, at 14.8 percent, but the concentrated dark fruit is offset by a surprising freshness. Cassis and plum aromas and flavors are punctuated by hints of grilled meat, smoke, baking spices, and thyme. Smooth tannins make it easy to drink in its youth.
Price: $17
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This beautifully balanced Cabernet shows why Catena is Argentina’s most renowned winery. Notes of dark fruits and ripe strawberries are accented by hints of cedar, smoke, green olive, and cumin. A nice acidic lift keeps the wine refreshing, and the oak is well integrated. The blend is 92 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 8 percent Cabernet Franc. The wine is drinking well now and will continue to develop for several years. Also worth considering: Catena’s 2023 “High Mountain Vines” Cabernet, another under-$20 value.
Price: $37
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Next up: Long Island’s white wines
The article 6 of the Best Cabernet Sauvignons From Argentina appeared first on VinePair.