7 of the Best Aglianicos From Southern Italy
Aglianico is one of the great grapes of southern Italy — the most important red variety of Campania and Basilicata.
And until I tasted two first-rate examples from the relatively obscure Molise, I hadn’t realized that the hearty Aglianico is also the signature red grape of that region, Italy’s second smallest, which lies just south of Abruzzo and also borders Campania.
Aglianico from Molise is an asterisk, to be sure, but these wines, both from the same producer, were so good that I’ve included them on the list below, which focuses mainly on wines from Basilicata and Campania.
If you haven’t tried Aglianico, it should be on your radar if you like bigger, full-flavored, and well-structured red wines. Many of the wines in both Campania and Basilicata are rooted in volcanic soils, so you’ll find plenty of minerality on the nose and palate. The variety is known for its deep color, concentrated dark and red fruit notes, tannic grip, and, in the better wines, ageability.
While I’ve seen it referred to as “the Barolo of the south,” Aglianico, to my palate, bears little resemblance to the famed Piedmont wine made from the Nebbiolo variety. Yes, both are powerful, structured wines, but the fruit profiles, and even the colors, are far different. Perhaps the comparison refers more to the grape’s stature in southern Italy.
Among Aglianicos, the most famous include Aglianico del Vulture in Basilicata, named for the land around the extinct Mount Vulture volcano where some of the best grapes are grown, and Taurasi in the Irpinia hills of Campania. While they tend to command the highest prices, there are plenty of notable moderately priced Aglianicos on store shelves in this country.
Here are seven of the best Aglianicos from southern Italy:
Di Majo Norante Contado Riserva Aglianico del Molise 2019
From the most well-known winery in Molise, this Aglianico has excellent complexity for its modest price tag. I thought of it as a great alternative to California Cabernets at a fraction of the cost. With aromas and flavors of cassis, Mediterranean herbs, powdered cocoa, and dark chocolate, it’s made for meats and hearty sauces.
Price: $16
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Mastroberardino Irpinia Aglianico 2022
Mastroberardino is one of Campania’s most historic wineries, and this splendid Aglianico is from the large Irpinia DOC. The wine is on the lighter side of Aglianico and shows red fruit and violets along with hints of smoke and river rocks. Medium tannins and lively acidity complete the picture of this balanced wine.
Price: $23
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Villa Matilde Taurasi ‘Pietrafusa’ 2020
Though delicious now, this Taurasi Aglianico will develop for years in the bottle. It’s dominated by concentrated black fruit aromas and flavors along with herbs, unsweetened chocolate, and tobacco hints. The chalky tannins are fairly aggressive at this point but will settle down with aeration and time.
Price: $40
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I Favati Irpinia Campi Taurasini ‘Cretarossa’ 2017
I Favati typically ages this Aglianico for six years in bottle after it spends a year or so in barriques and stainless steel tanks. Cretarossa is the name of the vineyard in the Irpinia Campi Taurasini DOC, which produces wines accessible earlier than those of the adjacent Taurasi appellation. Notes of black cherry and pomegranate seeds are accented by earth, cedar, nutmeg, and cinnamon hints, all supported by refreshing acidity. It will continue to develop for several more years.
Price: $25
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Tenuta Scuotto Campania Aglianico 2023
This well-priced, fruit-forward Aglianico shows ripe red berry aromas and flavors along with violets and touches of red and black licorice. It’s well structured and complex with a firm tannic grip that will soften as it ages.
Price: $21
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Cantine del Notaio Basilicata Rosso ‘L’Atto’ 2022
From the Vulture sub-region of Basilicata, this is a first-rate Aglianico that’s drinking well even in its youth. Ripe dark fruit notes are accented by hints of powdered cinnamon and eucalyptus. Softly tannic and approachable, you’ll find it hard to say no to another glass.
Price: $24
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Di Majo Norante Aglianico del Molise Riserva ‘Sassius’ 2016
I’m going to end where I began this list, with the Di Majo Norante winery in Molise, and its superb “Sassius” Aglianico. Made from organic grapes and with almost a decade of age, this is easily one of the top red wines of southern Italy. It’s in its prime right now with concentrated cassis and ripe blackberry aromas and flavors along with notes of forest floor and pencil shavings. Great balance, elegance, and depth here, even at 15 percent ABV.
Price: $49
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