We Asked 14 Sommeliers: Which Expensive Pinot Noir Is Worth the Splurge?

Sometimes you just want to splurge. Whether you’re celebrating a milestone birthday, flexing on colleagues, or want Tuesday to feel a little more special than normal, there’s certainly a time and place for pricey bottles. So when it’s time to reach a little deeper into your pocket, all eyes turn to the notoriously expensive Pinot Noir.

There’s no shortage of ways to shell out in Pinot Noir’s most-prized region of Burgundy, but domestic examples from the Willamette Valley and Sonoma can command eye-popping sums as well. So we tapped 14 sommeliers to spill which bottles are worth the staggering price tag and what they’re ordering when they want to ball out.

The most splurge-worthy Pinot Noirs, according to sommeliers:

Domaine Armand Rousseau Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
Domaine Chandon de Briailles Pernand-Vergelesses Ile des Vergelesses
Henri Jayer Vosne Romanée Cros Parantoux 2001
Domaine Armand Rousseau Charmes-Chambertin
Antica Terra Pinot Noir
Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny
Domaine Benjamin Leroux 2014
Domaine Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques
Louis Billard Gevrey-Chambertin Petite Chapelle
Kosta Browne Russian River Pinot Noir
Domaine Robert Chevillon Les Bousselots Nuits-Saint-Georges 2002
Rochioli Estate Pinot Noir

“The real test of a splurge is whether a producer can transcend a ‘bad’ vintage or being ‘worth it,’ and Domaine Armand Rousseau is the master of this. I recently had a 2004 that was a complete adventure despite the year’s reputation. There is a silkiness and emotional depth to their Clos de Bèze that makes it feel so special. Domaine Armand Rousseau Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru is worth the investment because you aren’t just buying a label; you’re buying the consistent, noble elegance of a house that refuses to let the weather dictate the quality of the glass. Even in difficult years, the wine maintains a structured, effortless grace that most other Pinots can’t achieve in a perfect season.” —Ronan Duchêne Le May, co-owner and beverage director, Le Chêne, New York City

“There’s certainly no shortage of ways to burn money in Burgundy, but you’re really not guaranteed to get all that much character even from some outlandishly expensive bottlings. The Domaine Chandon de Briailles Pernand-Vergelesses Ile des Vergelesses bottling has gone up in price pretty quickly the past few years, and while I still think there’s value there, it’s by no means an everyday sipper. The wine just bursts forth with an abundance of brooding, dark fruit and earth with an aromatic profile that’s both dense and effusive. It doesn’t sit still in the glass and will evolve and change over the span of hours if you give it the chance. It’s hard to express exactly how vibrant it is on the palate, but electric is probably the most apt descriptor: It just has a current of energy and vitality coursing through it.” —Chris Ray, wine director, Popal Group (Lutèce, Pascual, Maison Bar à Vins), Washington, D.C.

“The Henri Jayer Vosne Romanée Cros Parantoux 2001. This was the last vintage that Henri Jayer made before his nephew Emmanuel Rouget took over fully. I have had the pleasure of having Cros Parantoux several times in my lifetime, and it’s always a stunning example of what Pinot Noir should be. The layers of complexity, the vibrancy, and soul is unparalleled. I would put it against any Grand Cru DRC any day of the week. I just don’t have $10,000 sitting around to spend on a bottle.” —Andrew Noye, general manager, Husk, Savannah, Ga.

“Domaine Armand Rousseau Charmes-Chambertin is one of my favorite Pinot Noirs to have featured on one of my wine lists. This is a splurge for a very specific kind of wine lover, someone who values purity, finesse, and pedigree over power. Domaine Armand Rousseau is one of the most respected domains in Burgundy. In Burgundy, producers matter as much as vineyard, and Rousseau is elite. It is floral, silky, and beautifully precise Pinot Noir, light-bodied, elegant, and deeply nuanced.” —Tim Stuyts, partner, LenLen, NYC

“If Oregon had wines classified as Grand Cru, the wines of Antica Terra would be on the list. Depending on the vintage and the specific bottling, anywhere from less than 100 to 400 cases are produced each year. Maggie Harrison is the winemaker and has taken Oregon wine to a new dimension with her insight and dedication. These wines stand up to — and sometimes outperform — some of the best Grand Cru Burgundies I’ve personally enjoyed.” —Mary Kennedy, sommelier, Bar Mara at Four Seasons Hotel, Minneapolis

“I recently had the honor of working at La Paulée in New York City, which features the world’s most iconic and exclusive wines of Burgundy. It’s nearly impossible to come to a single conclusive answer on which shines the brightest in a room full of stars when you’re surrounded by names like Roumier, Lignier, Mugneret, the list goes on. But for me, the wines of the night came from Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny. I tasted through several vintages, but the 2001 (magnum) and 1982 (standard) stuck with me. I am a sucker for Musigny, which provides the perfect balance of structure and ageability combined with finesse and elegance that creates the harmony that I look for in any wine, but particularly Burgundian Pinot Noir.” —Jenn Forge, lead sommelier, Twelve, Portland, Maine

“Without going overboard on price, I believe we can certainly find joy in great village-level Pinot Noir, especially when it comes from thoughtful producers. One of my favorite producers and back vintages, the 2014 Benjamin Leroux shows a particularly elegant style and, at 12 years of age, it still delivers ripe and elegant fruit with an added depth of umami and complexity. Vosne-Romanée’s signature elegant perfume and silk are present, but what stands out is the balance between maturity and freshness, making it a compelling ‘splurge’ without reaching Grand Cru pricing.” —Luis Rojas, sommelier, MITA, Washington, D.C.

“If I were to splurge on a bottle of Pinot Noir, it would be from Armand Rousseau. I have been fortunate enough over the years to taste and serve many of the world’s most sought-after red Burgundies, and Rousseau has always been the most consistent and the one I can always depend on. At the highest level, Burgundy can feel like a gamble, especially with mature bottles. Rousseau will always be the one I’m always willing to bet on. I chose the Clos Saint-Jacques because it is essentially a Grand Cru in disguise. Silky, perfumed, and beautifully precise. The insider’s splurge. You will absolutely get your money’s worth!” —Tira Johnson, corporate beverage director, We All Gotta Eat Group (Chez Fifi, Sushi Noz, Fooq’s), NYC and Miami

“If I’m splurging –– or better yet, if someone else is footing the bill — I have a hard time passing up anything from Antica Terra in Oregon. Maggie Harrison makes some fascinating wines; they walk a tightrope between soft fruit, forest floor, and minerality. Production is limited and the price reflects that, but if we’re swinging for the fences, that’s where I’d put my money.” —Caden Worley, assistant general manager and beverage manager, Don Angie, NYC

“In my opinion, Burgundy is an easy pick for splurge-worthy Pinot Noir but the wines can get exorbitantly expensive. For me, Louis Billard’s Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Petite Chapelle is an indulgent, delicious option that also offers real value within a blue-chip region. The vines sit next door to Grand Cru Chapelle-Chambertin, which would easily go for three to four times the price, so you’re essentially getting wine of Grand Cru pedigree at a significant discount. It’s also made by Louis Billard, who trained at Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Georges Roumier and is, in my opinion, one of the top up-and-coming winemakers in the region. The wine is lithe and red-fruited, with a perfect balance of fruit density while still feeling weightless. The expressive terroir of Gevrey gives the wine its signature turned earth, truffled core. It’s a wine that instantly makes you feel decadent while still being a savvy buyer.” —Luke Boland, wine director, Sartiano’s and Zero Bond, NYC

“My pick is the Kosta Browne Russian River Pinot. Winemaker Julien Howsepian maintains Kosta Browne’s cult-level following through minimal intervention and terroir mastery. His finesse and willingness to allow each vintage to have its own identity are why Kosta Browne continues to be the Grand Cru of California Pinot Noir.” —Kyle Amoroso, head sommelier, Aqua Kyoto and Aqua Roma, NYC 

“I wanted to pick a wine that is splurge-worthy and nostalgic. I’ll never forget my first taste of 2002 Chevillon at Marc Forgione almost 12 years ago. It’s such an elegant vintage from Nuits that strikes a balance between brightness of fruit and that ‘old Pinot truffle’ thing. With the most delicate, silky structure, it’s a wine that simply strikes the pleasure centers. A bottle of the 2002 Domaine Robert Chevillon Les Bousselots and a perfectly roasted chicken is something I would totally shell out for.” —Erin Healy, head sommelier, Restaurant Daniel, NYC

“Although the wine is already drinking beautifully and is highly rated, Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Clos Saint-Jacques will continue to improve with age for the foreseeable future, with its value likely to increase as well. The wine is magic in the bottle. If you have a meaningful occasion to celebrate or are simply celebrating life, I could hardly recommend a more worthwhile wine to splurge on. The wine shows remarkable structure, elegance, and balance. It is one of those rare bottles that quietly steals the show at the table, continuing to reveal new layers as you enjoy it; almost feels as though it’s speaking to you. Its red-fruit core is layered with floral notes, spice, mineral undertones, and hints of forest floor. Silky and refined on the palate, it is, truly, ambrosia in a glass. So have it not just as a glass of wine, but as a distinct experience and a genuine treat.” —Victor Dedushaj, sommelier and director of operations, Benjamin Prime, NYC

“If I am to think about a Pinot Noir high price tag, Rochioli will be my immediate thought. It is a premier splurge thanks to its historic lineage and a signature ‘house style’ that balances silky, velvety textures with intense notes of ripe cherry and earthy forest floor. Its prestige is driven by limited-production block designates that offer profound aging potential, often evolving gracefully for over 20 years. These rare bottles are highly coveted for their long, spice-laden finishes and a reputation as a benchmark for Russian River Valley excellence.” —Ciprian Nourescu, general manager, Fresco By Scotto, NYC

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