New Arrival of the Week: Bruichladdich 14 Year Old 2009 (cask 2222) – Micro-Provenance Series (Master of Malt Exclusive)

We’ve got a special Master of Malt exclusive for you this week: Bruichladdich 14 Year Old 2009 (cask 2222) – Micro-Provenance Series! 

Remy Cointreau has produced this Islay single malt just for us and the timing of this product launch is significant as it comes on the second week of our Whisky Championships 2024. As Bruichladdich was the winner of last year’s competition, this bottling marks a thank you to loyal fans*.

The Bruichladdich whisky approach 

This is a single malt Scotch whisky which very much reflects the ethos Bruichladdich has worked to since its resurrection in 2001, which is rooted in provenance and transparency. Every recipe is broken down to give you as much information as legally possible in the belief that “You have the right to know what’s in your glass and to understand where that flavour comes from.”

The Islay distillery is one of the pioneers of relating the concept of terroir to whisky. Most commonly associated with the wine world, terroir describes the land and the combination of natural factors – including soil, sunlight and climate – which give the wine grapes their distinct character. As whisky is made from a grain, in theory, the impact of the land and place where it is grown would have a profound effect on the drinking experience. 

Certainly, Bruichladdich thinks so, bottling whisky in the past that demonstrates nuances from farm to farm, from one field to another, from harvest to harvest and from one vintage to the next. It distils different varieties of barley, including Optic, Propino, Concerto, Chalice, Publican, Golden Promise and Maris Otter, and since 2001 the brand only uses 100% Scottish barley. But it’s gone further than that too, working with around 19 farmers on Islay. Some of this barley has been distilled separately, some consolidated. Bruichladdich has also distilled organic barley, has created Islay’s first-ever rye spirit, has released a biodynamically grown Scotch whisky, and has made single malt from strains of revived ancient Bere barley. 

“The Scotch whisky industry has hidden behind a smokescreen of brand image because that is easier than getting a grip on the esoteric micro-influences that come to play in the development of a whisky’s fundamental raw material, barley – the most flavour-complex cereal in the world”, a statement on the brand’s website reads. In recent years, a giant experiment distilling malt derived from 50, then 100 and then 200-tonne batches of theoretically identical, conventionally grown barley harvested from three different regions of mainland Scotland: Aberdeen, The Black Isle and the Lothians was undertaken by Bruichladdich. The distillery says the results have been fascinating and provided one conclusive result: the barley is not identical at all. 

The Micro-Provenance series 

As part of this exploration into the flavour of whisky and its foundations, Bruichladdich created the Micro-Provenance series, an ongoing exploratory range of small-release single casks selected to examine the evolutionary influences on maturing Islay single malt Scotch whisky. The series examines the variables of age, vintage, wood, barley, storage, location, humidity, heat and marine climate, or as Bruichladdich puts it: the very essence of provenance. 

Our own particular exclusive whisky was distilled from the Optic strain of barley on 26 June 2009. Here’s what our glossary has to say about this strain: “Optic barley was developed during the 1990s and accounts for between 50 and 60% of the barley market. Optic barley boasts better resilience, resistance to disease and stronger, shorter straw. It is later to mature than other strains of barley and thus is harvested in August”. The single malt Scotch whisky was aged for 14 years in Cask #2222, a first-fill bourbon barrel stored in warehouse location WHS14 23E. It was filled into just 222 bottles at 59.2% ABV on 11 November 2023. A lot of twos here. 

So, what about how the whisky tastes? Cards on the table, it’s our exclusive you’ll just have to trust that I’m being as objective as I can here when I say that it is fucking delicious. Seriously good.

The whisky is full of that gorgeous blend of fruit, florals, and coastal notes you love from a good Bruichladdich, with a slick and tongue-coating texture that keeps you wanting to come back for another sip. The bourbon cask has done its job of elevating and preserving so many of the spirit’s qualities, while the bottling strength of 59.2% ABV sounds too much but is perfectly measured, bringing huge amounts of flavour and presence without overwhelming the senses. We have a bottle to share in the office and, frankly, I hate them all for drinking my whisky. Here’s a full tasting note. 

Bruichladdich 14 Year Old 2009 (cask 2222) – Micro-Provenance Series (Master of Malt Exclusive) tasting note:

Nose: The nose is tropical and lush with fruit (melon, stewed apple, papaya, foam banana sweets…) and perfumed with summer garden floral qualities, lavender mostly. There’s also notes of hessian in there as well as a candied sweetness from Jelly Tots and meringue, with damp oak and rock pools providing the coastal, mineral element we expect. 

Palate: The palate is sweet and viscous, almost syrupy, opening with more tropical fruit (lychee joining the ranks) and plenty of citrus too, orange and lemon-boiled sweets mostly. It has a charred quality like the fruit has been barbecued. Honey, sauternes, black pepper, tarragon, and a little bourbon cask sweetness add depth. 

Finish: The same medley of fruit that appeared throughout slowly dissipates among beach bonfire embers.

Bruichladdich 14 Year Old 2009 (cask 2222) – Micro-Provenance Series (Master of Malt Exclusive) is now available from Master of Malt. Click the link to purchase. 

*Note: This product was launched after voting for Whisky Champs 2024 was closed so it couldn’t influence any outcomes. 

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