Baking School In-Depth: Khachapuri
Stemming from the Georgian words “khacho” (cheese curds) and “puri” (bread), khachapuri (pronounced “hatch-ah-POO-ree”) is a beloved cheese-filled bread and the national dish of Georgia. There are different versions of khachapuris across different regions of Georgia, each with its own story to tell. It’s often said that there are as many recipes for khachapuris as there are kitchens in Georgia. For example, in the northern highlands of Racha, a square, flaky version of the bread is baked with a walnut in each corner to symbolize a good walnut harvest. Imeruli khachapuri is the most straightforward variety, a round, double-crusted flatbread stuffed with fresh, slightly sour cheese and bound with beaten egg.
One of the most famous of all khachapuris is from Adjara, a region of Georgia on the coast of Black Sea. Adjaruli khachapuri is open-faced, filled with cheese, and crowned with an egg and a generous pat of butter. Gently tear a piece of warm, craggy crust from around the edges and plunge it into the sea of molten cheese. Pop the sunny egg yolk, letting it ooze into the cheese, and swirl in the butter. Repeat until it mysteriously disappears. (Yes, it’s as heavenly as it sounds!)
The shape of Adjaruli khachapuris resembles a boat, with the cheese filling symbolizing water and the egg yolk representing the sun—perfectly capturing the essence of the Black Sea region’s natural beauty and maritime heritage. The traditional cheeses used in Georgian khachapuris are tangy imeruli or sulguni, but they’re difficult to find in the US. Our recipe uses a blend of mozzarella, feta, and crème fraîche to mimic the taste and texture of the traditional.
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INGREDIENT BREAKDOWN
Excellent recipes require wonderful ingredients. Here’s how our recipes’ ingredients contribute to making the best khachapuris.
BREAD FLOUR: Bread flour is higher in protein and gluten, which allows bread dough to form a stable structure and rise higher. In this recipe, high-protein flour is essential to create a strong gluten network, with enough protein content to develop gluten and to handle the enrichment added to this dough.
GRANULATED SUGAR: Sugar acts as food for yeast, which converts it to carbon dioxide and alcohol in the fermentation process. This ultimately helps to tenderize the dough. Sugar also aids in developing the crust’s golden color.
INSTANT YEAST: In contrast to active dry yeast, instant yeast contains 25% more living yeast cells because it is processed more gently. A single-celled organism, yeast will grow and multiply when it receives moisture, food (sugar), and warmth. It leavens the dough by converting carbohydrates into carbon dioxide gas and alcohol. We use the dry blending method, where yeast is whisked into other dry ingredients, and wet ingredients at a higher temperature are then added all at once.
KOSHER SALT: As a general rule of thumb, the ratio of salt to flour in breads is 1.8% to 2% of flour weight. It’s important to weigh your salt because different salt crystals measure differently. Dough without enough salt easily over- ferments. Salt also helps with crust color and enhances flavor.
WARM WATER AND WARM WHOLE MILK: We use milk to add both fat and flavor to our dough, but we cut it with water to keep the dough from getting too dark during baking. As the natural sugars in milk heat at high temperatures, they undergo the Maillard reaction, which involves browning in its end stages, thus contributing to the gorgeous golden color of the khachapuris. Additionally, the water and milk keep the dough warm, setting it up for a successful first rise.
OLIVE OIL: As fat, olive oil is mainly responsible for enriching the dough and adding a little savory flavor. Olive oil also helps produce a slightly more elastic dough, allowing it to stretch and be shaped.
EGGS: Egg yolks enrich the filling, binding the cheeses together beautifully. We also brush an egg wash onto the edges of the dough before they go into the oven, creating a beautiful shine and enhancing the color. And let’s not forget the crowning egg yolk—this final touch transforms the dish, adding another level of lusciousness and a striking visual appeal.
MOZZARELLA CHEESE, FETA CHEESE, AND CRÈME FRAÎCHE: While the traditional cheeses for Adjaruli khachapuris are imeruli and sulguni, we’ve crafted our own delightful blend using melty mozzarella, salty feta, and tangy crème fraîche. This combination creates a satisfyingly gooey pool of melted cheese that invites you to dive in headlong.
FRESH CHIVES AND THYME: Fresh herbs provide an aromatic contrast that balances the dish’s overall decadence. Their bright flavors enliven the filling, and a final flourish on top adds a burst of color and brightness.
Khachapuri
Equipment
Ingredients
Dough:
4 to 4⅓ cups (508 to 550 grams) bread flour, plus more for dusting1 tablespoon (12 grams) granulated sugar2¼ teaspoons (7 grams) instant yeast2 teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt1 cup (240 grams) warm water (120°F/49°C to 130°F/54°C)1/2 cup (120 grams) warm whole milk (120°F/49°C to 130°F/54°C)2 tablespoons (24 grams) olive oil
Filling:
6 ounces (340 grams) shredded whole-milk mozzarella cheese6 ounces (340 grams) creamy feta cheese, crumbled1⅓ cups (320 grams) crème fraîche2 large egg yolks (37 grams), room temperature2 tablespoons (8 grams) chopped fresh chives4 teaspoons (4 grams) chopped fresh thyme1/2 teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt1/2 teaspoon (1 gram) ground black pepper1 large egg (50 grams)1 tablespoon (15 grams) water4 to 6 large egg yolks (74 to 112 grams)2 to 3 tablespoons (28 to 42 grams) unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-tablespoon patsGarnish: fresh thyme, chopped fresh chives, ground black pepper
Instructions
TAKING SHAPE
For dough: In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together 4 cups (508 grams) flour, sugar, yeast, and salt by hand. Using the paddle attachment, with mixer on low speed, add 1 cup (240 grams) warm water, warm milk, and oil, beating until a shaggy dough forms. Heating the water and milk to just the right temperature ensures the dough is warm enough for the perfect first rise but not so hot that it will kill the yeast.
Switch to the dough hook attachment. Beat at medium-low speed until dough is smooth, elastic, and slightly tacky, 12 to 15 minutes; add up to remaining 1⁄3 cup (42 grams) flour, 1 tablespoon (8 grams) at a time, if dough is too sticky. Adding the flour in two additions guarantees all the ingredients are evenly incorporated into the dough.
Lightly oil a large bowl. Place dough in bowl, turning to grease top. Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until doubled in size, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Rising times vary depending on the environment, but keep in mind that the amount the dough has risen—the volume—is more important than how long it takes to rise.
For filling: In a medium bowl, stir together mozzarella, feta, and crème fraîche. Stir in egg yolks, chives, thyme, salt, and pepper. Refrigerate until ready to use.
Line 2 to 3 baking sheets with parchment paper; lightly dust parchment with flour. Punch down dough, and let stand for 5 minutes. Punching down the dough deflates air pockets, releases carbon dioxide, and relaxes the gluten, giving the dough a softer texture. This process redistributes the yeast cells, allowing them better access to moisture and sugar, which enhances fermentation and promotes a beautiful second rise. This step will also help you shape the dough into “boats.”
Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface. Divide dough into 4 portions (about 222 grams each) for larger khachapuri or 6 portions (about 148 grams each) for smaller khachapuri. Shape 1 portion into an oval and then press flat. (Keep remaining portions covered to prevent them from drying out.) Roll dough into a 10×6-inch oval for larger khachapuri or 9×6-inch oval for smaller, flouring surface as needed. Repeat with remaining dough. Cover and let stand for 15 minutes.
Working with 1 portion of dough at at a time, roll edges of dough toward center on each side to form a border to hold filling. Using fingertips, press rolled edges of crust together with base of dough to seal well. (This will prevent the moisture from the filling from unraveling the edges while baking.) Pinch ends together, then twist and slightly tuck under to form boat shape. Place on a prepared pan. Repeat with remaining dough, placing 2 larger or 3 smaller on each prepared pan.
FILL AND BAKE
Divide filling among dough, 11⁄4 cups (about 257 grams) each for larger dough or 2/3 cup (about 174 grams) each for smaller, and spread evenly within border. Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until puffed (not doubled), about 30 minutes.
Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C).
In a small bowl, whisk together egg and 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water; using a pastry brush, brush onto dough.
Bake until crust is golden brown, 17 to 19 minutes for smaller or 20 to 23 minutes for larger. Add 1 egg yolk to center of each khachapuri, and bake until edges of yolks just start to set, about 2 minutes more. Top each with 1⁄2 tablespoon (7 grams) butter. Garnish with thyme, chives, and pepper, if desired. Serve immediately.
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