Baking School In-Depth: Sfogliatelle

Sfogliatelle, meaning “thin layer” or “thin leaf,” are heavenly, shell-shaped pastries from the Campania region of southern Italy. The story of these pastries can be traced back to the early 17th century in Conca dei Marini, a town in Salerno within Campania. A nun at the Santa Rosa monastery crafted a rustic, simple, layered pastry dough, filling it with a mixture of semolina cooked with milk, ricotta cheese, dried fruit, and sugar. In the late 18th century, pastry chef Pasquale Pintauro acquired the recipe and opened a pastry shop in Naples that became famous for its sfogliatelle. His skill and dedication elevated the pastry from a regional delight to a beloved Neapolitan classic, celebrated across Italy and beyond.

In Naples, you’ll find two enchanting variations of sfogliatelle. First, there are the dome-shaped sfogliatelle frolla, with a semolina-ricotta filling encased in a shortcrust pastry called pasta frolla. Then there are sfogliatelle ricce—“ricce” meaning curly—famed for staggered layers of paper-thin pastry that crackles into a million tiny flakes with one bite, revealing the creamy filling nestled inside.

The secret to those glorious layers that Neapolitans insist on lies in slathering the dough with lard (strutto) and stretching it until it’s sheer. Inside, the filling pays homage to the classic sfogliatella with a hint of spices—cardamom, cinnamon, and vanilla—while candied orange peel adds a vibrant touch to the creamy semolina-ricotta filling. Feel free to play with your own delicious variations, like chopped chocolate or cocoa powder, a splash of limoncello and lemon zest, or ground pistachios. These pastries may be a labor of love, but the reward for your efforts is truly irresistible.

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INGREDIENT BREAKDOWN

Excellent recipes require wonderful ingredients. Here’s how our recipes’ ingredients contribute to making the best sfogliatelle.

BREAD FLOUR: Bread flour is chosen for its higher protein content, typically between 12% and 14%. This protein is essential for developing gluten, which gives the dough strength and elasticity. The gluten network created by kneading ensures the dough can be rolled thin without tearing, resulting in the delicate layers that define sfogliatelle’s flaky texture.

KOSHER SALT:A vital ingredient in both flavor and structure, salt not only enhances the natural flavors of the dough but also strengthens the gluten structure. It helps control the fermentation and hydration process, ensuring that the dough remains manageable and maintains its shape during rolling and baking. The small amount of salt enhances the natural flavors of the filling while preventing it from becoming overly sweet. It also helps balance the overall profile of the filling, enhancing the spices and other ingredients.

WATER: Water activates the gluten-forming proteins in the flour, which is crucial for creating a dough that can be kneaded and stretched thin without breaking. Ensuring the correct water-to-flour ratio is critical for achieving the right dough consistency.

HONEY: This ingredient adds a subtle, natural sweetness and acts as a tenderizer. The natural sugars in honey attract moisture, helping keep the dough soft and pliable. Honey also contributes to the dough’s ability to hold together, facilitating the rolling and layering process.

LARD: The key to creating the signature flaky layers of sfogliatelle is the use of lard. Its high fat content (about 100%) ensures that the dough layers separate during baking, creating that crisp, light texture. The fat coats the gluten strands, inhibiting their development and allowing the dough to maintain its thinness and flakiness.

WHOLE MILK: The base of the semolina mixture, milk provides moisture and a rich, creamy texture. The natural fats in whole milk help balance the sweetness of the sugar and create a well-rounded filling.

GRANULATED SUGAR: Sugar sweetens the filling and acts as a stabilizer. It not only adds flavor but also helps retain moisture in the semolina mixture, preventing it from becoming too dry when cooled. It also works to balance the tanginess of the ricotta.

SEMOLINA FLOUR: This finely ground durum wheat product is the key thickening agent for the filling. When combined with hot milk, the semolina forms a rich, porridge-like consistency that sets to a smooth, pliable texture as it cools. It adds a slight graininess that contrasts with the creamy ricotta, creating an interesting textural layer.

WHOLE-MILK RICOTTA CHEESE: The star of the filling, ricotta provides a smooth, creamy base with a subtle tang. The high moisture content of whole-milk ricotta ensures that the filling remains rich and not overly dense. Choosing high-quality ricotta with a balanced fat content helps create a velvety consistency that pairs beautifully with the semolina.

EGG YOLK: The egg yolk adds richness and color and helps bind the filling together, preventing it from separating during baking. The lecithin in the yolk acts as an emulsifier, promoting a smooth and uniform texture.

VANILLA EXTRACT: Vanilla introduces an aromatic note that complements the sweetness of the sugar and the richness of the ricotta. It enhances the overall flavor without overpowering the delicate spices.

GROUND CINNAMON: A warming spice that adds depth and complexity to the filling, cinnamon’s natural oils also contribute to the overall sensory experience, balancing out the sweetness and providing a subtle heat.

GROUND CARDAMOM: A slightly floral and citrusy spice that enhances the flavor profile and adds a layer of sophistication to the filling, cardamom’s unique flavor pairs well with the other spices and complements the candied orange peel.

CANDIED ORANGE PEEL: The candied orange peel adds a touch of citrusy sweetness and a slight chewiness that contrasts with the smoothness of the filling. It provides an authentic Italian touch and brightens up the
rich and spiced filling.

CONFECTIONERS’ SUGAR: The final flourish that adds sweetness and a visually appealing finish, a light dusting of confectioners’ sugar enhances the pastry’s look and adds an extra touch of sweetness to balance the rich, flaky layers.

Sfogliatelle

Makes about 24 pastries

Sfogliatelle, meaning “thin layer” or“thin leaf,” are divine pastries from the Campania region of Italy. Be sure to plan ahead, as this recipe requires time and patience to roll, measure, cut, shape, and fill the pastries into their classic shell-like shape. Once you have one bite, all your hard work will be well worth it as the layers of flaky, golden pastry crackle into a million shards, revealing the creamy, custardy semolina-ricotta filling inside.They’re best enjoyed warm (alongside a cappuccino, by Neapolitan standards),as they lose their irresistible crispness over time.

Equipment

Multi-Purpose Kitchen Shears

Chef‘s Knife

Ingredients

Dough:

4 cups (508 grams) bread flour2 teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt3/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons (225 grams) water1 tablespoon (21 grams) honeyAll-purpose flour, for dusting8 ounces (227 grams) lard

Filling:

1 cup (240 grams) whole milk, room temperature1/2 cup (100 grams) granulated sugar2/3 cup (120 grams) semolina flour1/4 teaspoon kosher salt2 cups (450 grams) whole-milk ricotta cheese*1 large egg yolk (19 grams), room temperature1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract1/2 teaspoon (1 gram) ground cinnamon1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom3/4 cup (107 grams) chopped candied orange peel

Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting

Instructions

For dough: In a large bowl, whisk together bread flour and salt. Add 3⁄4 cup plus 3 tablespoons (225 grams) water and honey, and stir until a shaggy dough forms. Turn out onto a clean surface, and knead until dough comes together. (Dough will look a little dry but will hydrate after resting.) Wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to overnight.

Divide dough into 4 portions (about 186 grams each). Roll 1 portion of dough through a pasta roller at the largest setting. (Keep remaining portions covered in plastic wrap while you work.) Fold dough into thirds like a letter, and rotate 90 degrees. Repeat rolling, folding, and rotating two more times until dough is smooth and even.

After third roll, drop to the next level on pasta roller. Continue to roll dough, lowering setting on pasta roller with each pass, until you reach smallest setting. Lay finished dough flat, and lightly dust entire length with all-purpose flour. (Too much flour will dry out dough and it will rip when pulled.) Carefully roll dough onto a small rolling pin to make it easier to handle.

Unroll about 6 inches of rolled-out dough in front of you. Using your hands, spread a thin, even layer of lard onto dough. Stretch it to 10 to 12 inches wide, or as thin and wide as you possibly can by hand. You should be able to see your hand through the dough. Starting from short side closest to you, roll dough into a tight log. Continue to grease, stretch, and roll dough until you have about 2 inches left. Cover final 2 inches with lard, and stretch out thin.

Take second portion of dough, and pass it through pasta roller. Repeat flouring and rolling procedure; grease first 2 inches of dough, and stretch to match first portion of rolled-up dough. Overlap the portions, and continue to grease, stretch, and roll second portion. Repeat entire procedure with remaining dough so that all 4 portions of dough are rolled into 1 log.

Gently compress and roll log to even out the thickness; it should be about 13 inches long. Grease outside of log with lard, wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to overnight.

For filling: In a medium saucepan, bring milk and graduated sugar to a low boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally. Stir in semolina and salt; cook, stirring constantly, until mixture thickens and begins to pull away from sides of pan, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat, and let cool for 15 minutes.

In a large bowl, place semolina mixture. Whisk to loosen and break up large pieces. Add ricotta, egg yolk, vanilla, cinnamon, and cardamom; stir until smooth and combined. Fold in orange peel. Cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until cooled, at least 1 hour, or for up to 3 days.

Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Line rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper.

Spoon cooled filling into a pastry bag, and cut a 1⁄2-inch opening in tip.

Trim about 1⁄2 inch from each end of dough log. Cut log crosswise into 24 (1⁄2-inch-thick) slices. Working with 1 slice at a time, hold slice so your thumbs are resting in center of slice. Gently press and rotate slice in your hands to create a cone shape, pressing and flattening dough without unwinding it or separating layers. The finished cone should be about 2½ inches in diameter and 3 inches long.

Holding cone in 1 hand, pipe filling into cone (about 2 tablespoons or 38 grams), making sure to leave 1⁄4 inch of headspace at top. Pinch together ends of cone to seal, and place on a prepared pan. Gently press on pastry to flatten. Repeat with remaining slices and remaining filling, placing 2 inches apart on prepared pans.

Bake until golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes, rotating pans halfway through baking. Let cool on pans for 5 minutes. Generously dust with confectioners’ sugar. Best served warm. Store in an airtight container for up to 2 days.

Notes

*We used BelGioioso® Ricotta con Latte® Cheese.

READ BETWEEN THE LAYERS

Perfectly paper-thin pastry

After dividing the dough, make sure to keep the remaining portions wrapped on the countertop to prevent them from drying out. When you’re ready to roll, take one portion and flatten it into a rectangle, just slightly narrower than your pasta machine. Fold the dough in thirds and pass the dough through the machine on its thickest setting. After three passes, you will notice the dough is uniform and smooth. Keep confidently passing the dough through until you reach the thinnest setting on your pasta machine.

TIP: If you have helpers on hand, don’t hesitate—gather them in the kitchen! There’s something wonderfully satisfying about working together; the whole process becomes much more enjoyable and memorable.

Lightly dusting the dough with flour as you roll it onto the rolling pin is essential to prevent the layers from sticking together, which makes the shaping much easier for you. If it tears at any point, don’t worry. Just keep going, and take your time to be gentle and mindful not to let it tear too much.

Smear the dough with lard and gently stretch the dough thinly in an upward and outward motion until it’s beautifully translucent—think tissue paper-thin. With the shortest side facing you, start rolling the dough into a tight log, pulling gently as you roll to stretch it even thinner. Stop when you have a few inches left—you’ll use this to overlap with the next piece of dough. Repeat with each of the remaining pieces of dough, overlapping the ends to form a single tight log about 2 inches in diameter.

TIP: Your wrapped dough log can be frozen for up to 1 month. Simply thaw the dough in the refrigerator overnight, and you’ll be ready to continue with the recipe.

LAYERS REVEAL THEIR SECRETS

Shaping, filling, and baking sfogliatelle

Once your dough log is nice and firm, slice it into 1⁄2-inch-thick rounds. Work with one round at a time, keeping the rest covered on the countertop so the dough doesn’t dry out. There’s no need to rush—take time to breathe and savor the process.

Using your thumbs and fingertips, gently coax the dough from the center outward. Rotate the slice as you go, sliding the layers apart without separating, like slowly opening a collapsible cup. If you create a small hole, don’t worry. Just reattach the dough—the filling won’t leak out. The goal is to get the dough thin enough to achieve that lovely shatteringly crunchy structure.

Once shaped, pipe in your filling, making sure there’s enough room to pinch the edges closed. Arrange on the parchment- lined baking sheet and continue with the rest of the slices. Then bake to golden perfection and dust with confectioners’ sugar.

TIP: These pastries are wonderful prepared in advance. Shape, fill, and seal them the day before baking on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet, cover, and refrigerate overnight. In the morning, bake them off and enjoy them the way southern Italians do—as a warm, sweet breakfast. It’s a touch of luxury at your fingertips, transforming the everyday into a little dolce vita.

Are Lobster Tails the Same as Sfogliatelle?

Though they may appear similar with their countless layers and delicate conical shapes, Italian American lobster tail pastries differ from sfogliatelle. Lobster tails are about twice the size of their Italian counterparts. Once shaped, choux pastry is piped into the dough, which puffs up during baking to create a hollow space inside. After cooling, the lobster tails are generously filled with crème diplomate, a decadent blend of whipped cream and pastry cream.

Why Lard?

Using lard in sfogliatelle isn’t just a nod to tradition; it infuses the pastry with a rich depth of flavor that elevates every bite. Lard’s unique fat composition helps create those delicate, flaky layers, allowing them to separate beautifully as they bake. Its high melting point ensures the dough maintains its shape, resulting in a crisp exterior and a tender interior. While you can substitute shortening for lard, it won’t replicate the traditional flavor or texture quite as effectively. Butter is not a suitable substitute—its lower melting point causes it to leak out of the dough, which leads to a flat, greasy pastry and a mess to clean up.

The post Baking School In-Depth: Sfogliatelle first appeared on Bake from Scratch.

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