Why Mortlach is called the “Beast of Dufftown”

Mortlach Distillery calls itself the “Beast of Dufftown”. 

This refers to the muscular whisky it makes, rich in sulphur, umami, and dark fruit notes.

Its fearsome reputation, created through its complex and unconventional 2.81 distillation method, sets it apart from many other distilleries in Speyside that create a more ‘typical’ style of whisky, defined as smooth, light, accessible, and elegant single malts. Ones that showcase flavours like sweet fruit and honey. 

Not Mortlach. This is an outsider, an outlier, a distillery that prides itself on doing things differently. How, why, and what does it all mean? That’s exactly what this article is all about.

The Mortlach whisky range:

First, let’s meet the whiskies. The core range from Mortlach includes:

Mortlach 12 Year Old ‘Wee Witchie’

Named after the smallest of its six stills, Mortlach 12 Year Old is your first introduction to the distillery’s muscular spirit. Aged in a mix of American and European oak casks, it showcases a rich, sherried backbone with notes of dark berries, nutmeg, and toffee. Beneath the sweetness lies Mortlach’s signature savoury edge: hints of roasted meat, leather, and black pepper.

Mortlach 16 Year Old

Drawing inspiration from the legendary 16 Year Old Flora & Fauna release (a lot of people’s first exposure to Mortlach single malt), this beauty is fully matured in sherry-seasoned casks to amplify the spirit’s darker, brooding side. Dried fruits, cinnamon, and dark chocolate intertwine with gamey richness, creating a velvety, mouth-coating whisky with layers of oak and spice. The sherry influence brings out a subtle smokiness and a long, warming finish with hints of espresso and clove.

Mortlach 20 Year Old

The peak of the core range combines Mortlach’s raw power with decades of slow maturation in sherry and refill bourbon casks. Mortlach 20 Year Old is full of dark chocolate, dried cherries, and polished oak and has this familiar savoury finish, where whispers of tobacco, treacle, and aged leather emerge. Think of it like Mortlach whisky in a smoking jacket.

How Mortlach single malt whisky is made

Mortlach’s robust character is credited to its distillation process. It distils its whisky 2.81 times, using a complicated process known as ‘The Way’. 

There’s three wash and three spirits stills – all different shapes and sizes. The wash (made from a clear wort and long fermentation) is split between three wash stills. The No. 3 wash still and No.3 spirit still work in tandem like most stills do.

But the low wines from wash stills No. 1 and 2 are split into two parts:

1. 80% of the run is collected as the charge for spirit still No. 2.

2. 20% (called weak feints) forms the charge for spirit still No.1. Otherwise known as ‘The Wee Witchie’. This distils the weak feints three times with only the heart of the final run being collected.

It all adds up to 2.81 times.

In addition, all the stills run relatively speedily and all lyne arms run into cold worm tubs. 

This complex regime in a copper-starved environment means that some heavier elements that arise from whisky production like sulphur are not purified from the spirit, lending it a ‘meatiness’ and weight.

Sherry and bourbon cask influence

Maturation doesn’t so much tame Mortlach’s beastly spirit as it enhances its natural depth. Typically the spirit is aged in a combo of sherry and bourbon casks. 

Sherry casks can overwhelm a delicate spirit, but not the bold Mortlach spirit. Those flavours of rich fruit, aromatic spice, and nutty depth you taste are developed by the sherry casks and suit its power, only adding more weight to its presence. 

This intensity makes it a favourite among blenders looking to add structure to a whisky (it’s been a core component of Johnnie Walker for years) and an intriguing single malt for those who love bold, full-bodied spirits.

The Last Drop: why Mortlach is a cult favourite 

Mortlach’s nickname is well-earned. The 2.81 distillation process and the meaty, umami-rich it creates profile set it apart. Though Mortlach has remained relatively under the radar compared to some Speyside giants, its reputation has grown among enthusiasts.

You can buy Mortlach whisky from Master of Malt. Click on the link for prices and availability.

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