Mountains and Cocktails in Stowe, Vermont

The fresh air, these cozy confines, that woodsy charm. And oh yeah, the cocktails.

It’s no wonder the Von Trapps (yes, the actual singing family from The Sound of Music) relocated here after living in picturesque Switzerland. Northern Vermont’s rolling mountain vistas practically had me singing out myself, “the hills are alive!”

As I landed in Burlington and drove 40 minutes to my destination to the equally quaint and bustling village of Stowe, I was more than ready to take it all in. I’m staying at The Lodge at Spruce Peak, which sits at the base of the aforementioned mountain and is a part of Stowe Mountain Resort. As you walk into the lodge, the first thing you notice are the massive windows which look out onto the mighty mountains located just beyond the property. My room was a rustic oasis, complete with a balcony where I ran out every morning to breathe in the crisp, piney air.

It also smells of history. Skiing has its roots as an American pastime in the area, and it’s here in Stowe where the National Ski Patrol was founded back in 1938. It’s no wonder, considering the mountain gets around 300 inches of powder per year. You can see it all from the view from your rooms at the Lodge. The balcony off of my room boasts views of massive, rustic complexes and the nearby tall, towering mountains. As I look out, I sip a Cider Donut flavored Stowe Cider. It tastes exactly what it sounds like: delicious. No matter when one comes, the views are eye popping. Summer? You’ll see lush greens. Autumn? Get ready for such an eye-popping array of colors it’s overwhelming. By the time Old Man Winter visits, it’s a skier and snowboarder’s delight.

But no matter when one comes, you won’t be bored. That’s because Stowe Mountain Resort is rife with an impressive spa (outdoor and heated), and regular yoga classes and hiking explorations. Did I mention the restaurants and bars?

The Tipsy Trout stands as one of the resort’s more refined options, with its moniker coming from the fish that glides through the streams and tributaries around here. The trout is also on the menu, as are dishes ranging from Lobster Agnolotti to Duck Rice (which is exactly what it sounds like). I order a towering plate of mussels and devour them. The rotating cocktail menu is just as impressive; on this particular night, there’s 13 bespoke libations on the menu grouped into categories like ‘Light and Aromatic,’ ‘Bright and Juicy,’ and ‘Boozy and Bold.’ Since I’m visiting from New York City, I naturally opt for an Alpine Manhattan from the latter group, made up of Saxton’s River Sapling Maple Bourbon, Amaro Averna, Dolin Génépy de Chamois and Mole Bitters. Elsewhere, the eponymous Stowe Cobbler features Lillet Rose, Thyme Honey, Blood Orange, and the local Spruce Peak Cider.

Local is king here in Stowe, with a variety of thriving distilleries around the community, including Green Mountain Distillers and Boyden Valley Winery and Spirits. Steps from my room on the property at Stowe, there’s also Whistlepig Distillery’s Pavillion, the iconic Vermont whiskey operation which runs a tasting room here of all of its beloved delights. I order a Piggyback Rye, which Whistlepig founder Dave Pickerell masterminded before his passing in 2018. Summer and winter, the pavilion turns into a de facto concert venue curated by Spruce Peak Arts, with recent performers including the Grammy-winning singer-songwriter Brandy Clark. Good whiskey to complement live music: what could be better than that? As the sun goes down, my cozy room is the perfect antidote to the cold wind outside.

Aside from obvious mountain activities, I also come across a spa, golf course, and a litany of ancillary activities including morning yoga, snowshoeing, a breathwork and ice bath class, and a meditation class, to name a few. I go on a short hike, 60 minutes round-trip, which is enough for the city boy in me and I promptly work up a thirst. Luckily, the Lodge also features Alpine Hall, an all-day American restaurant, and as I look out the windows as visitors hustle to and from the lifts and those aforementioned activities, I sip a Vermont Old Fashioned. Alpine Hall’s spin on the classic encompasses Rectified Bourbon along with Perc Coffee Liqueur. In addition, Green Mountain Maple Liqueur is thrown in for some woodsy sweetness, as well as Angostura and Black Walnut Bitters. In other words, Vermont in a glass.

On my last day here, it seemed appropriate to imbibe in a cocktail while gazing at everything I’ve explored during my charmed days spent here. With that, I hop on a gondola and get off at the tippy-top, where Cliff House Restaurant, a high altitude dining and drinking destination only accessible by lift and only for lunch, is located; on Vermont’s highest peak. On one side, there’s a deck that looks out as far as the eye can see; on the other side, large windows look out onto rocky cliffs as if it’s framing a natural scene of flora and fauna. I ask an employee about the precarious spot, and one tells me sometimes they do get stuck all the way up here, or have to evacuate, depending on finicky Mother Nature.

As a result, the menu is full of comfort food, including deep fried mozzarella and maple chipotle wings. I order the pork belly dish in the form of maple bacon chicharrónes, and pair it with an Aperol Spritz. At this altitude, my worries are as far away as civilization feels and the only thing I have to think about is whether or not to order another one. As for my decision, civilization down below can wait.