Masterclass Explains The Art of Aperitivo

Spritz-style drinks taken off in the U.S. in recent years for a number of reasons. One is that more people are embracing the art of aperitivo — the Italian tradition of gathering with friends before dinner for a low-ABV drink and some savory snacks.

Aperitivo is ingrained in Italy’s culture, according to mixologist LP O’Brien, Netflix’s Drink Masters winner. Speaking at a masterclass and aperitivo hour at Milady’s in New York last month, O’Brien noted that “aperitivo is an opportunity to relax, connect and embrace this moment that you’ll never have again. We don’t have that in the U.S.”

Why are Americans embracing aperitivo now? “People are drinking during the day,” said aperitivo and spirits expert Roberta Mariani, who is also the brand manager of the Italian spirit Italicus. Consumer palates are changing, and they’re seeking beverages with lower ABV and less sugar.

The origin of the word aperitivo means “to open,” as in open the appetite or “prepare the body for a meal,” Mariani said. The botanical liqueurs used in spritzes and other aperitivo drinks actually started out as medicine, such as bitters for digestion, she noted. “They evolved to something different: drinks people have before dinner.”

The rosolio category of botanical Italian liqueurs — typically a neutral distillate infused with regional citrus, flowers or herbs, then sweetened and diluted — was largely forgotten until 2016. That’s when spirits expert and innovator Giuseppe Gallo created Italicus Rosolio di Bergamotto, with keynotes of Calabrian bergamot and hints of fresh rose, lavender and floral spice.

With its citrus essence, Italicus works well in a spritz and can also be used in classics like the Margarita and the Sgroppino. The spirit “is something that we didn’t have before; a new kind of bitter that’s fun to work with,” said mixologist Julie Reiner, owner of Milady’s and a Drink Masters judge.

Since 2018, the brand has held The Art of Italicus Aperitivo Challenge, in which bartenders create an original spritz cocktail using a minimum of 1 ½ oz. of Italicus and no more than five ingredients. (The deadline to submit recipes for this year’s competition is April 28, 2025.)

It’s important to remember that aperitivo is more than a drink, O’Brien said. “It’s a moment of pause, a bridge between the daily grind and a moment of connection.”

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