There’s a surreal quality to a supermarket’s wine aisle. After you’ve spent an hour or so stuffing your shopping cart with breakfast cereal, dog food, bathroom amenities, and frozen pizza rolls, a long row of whites and reds may feel somewhat out of place. But it can be a fun experience, because there are bona fide gems to be had, hiding in plain sight among mass-produced bottles that may make your inner wine snob twitchy.
A quality supermarket wine can also capture a sommelier’s attention. This may sound a little unusual at first, because these labels may have little chance of appearing on their wine lists or being discussed with guests in detail. But it helps to remember that somms also need groceries, and they’re not routinely uncorking hundred-dollar bottles during their off-hours. They may not always advertise they’re into a delicious yet unfussy supermarket wine, but this hardly matters if the bottles they secretly enjoy make them happy.
So what supermarket wines bring professionals fuss-free joy? We asked eight sommeliers to find out. Here’s what they had to say:
Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc
Catena Classic Malbec
Subject to Change “Blanc Space” Sauvignon Blanc
Dr. Konstantin Frank Semi-Dry Reisling
Dr. Konstantin Frank Separavi
Pieropan Soave Classico
Inama Soave Classico
Penedès Blanc Selecció, Huguet de Can Feixes 2023
Cantina Pra Otto Soave Classico
Mavasia from Northern Italy
Malvasia from Slovenia
Untermoserhof Schiava
Mac Forbes Pinot Noir
William Downie Pinot Noir
Wine from Picpoul de Pinet
“My choice of supermarket wine is Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc, partially for the nostalgia factor. It was the first wine I remember loving when working summers at a restaurant in Newport, R.I. I also lived in Sydney, Australia, for a year and New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc was plentiful, so it takes me back to that great time of my life. This brand is quintessentially New Zealand: pronounced passion fruit and grapefruit flavors, with zippy acidity that is super refreshing on a hot summer day.” —Emily Mendyka, owner, Vino Venue, Dunwoody, Ga.
“It’s no secret that I love Catena wines. And you can find the Catena Classic Malbec in many grocery stores. The wine is the regional-level introduction to the most significant estate in Argentina, and one of the most significant producers in the world. Has anyone put more time, effort, money, love, and care into understanding their vines than Dr. Laura Catena and vine-whisperer Alejandro Vigil? Not really. And the proof is in the elegant, rich, plummy, violet-scented beauty that is this wine.” —Clayton Fox, wine director, Restaurant R’evolution, New Orleans
“If you’re lucky enough to live near a Whole Foods, they carry an incredible wine from Subject to Change called Blanc Space. It’s a textural, zippy skin-contact Sauvignon Blanc from Mendocino, Calif. It’s a perfect summertime wine, and probably the only truly natural, zero-added-sulfur wine you can find in a grocery store. Winemaker Alex Pomerantz is also the nicest guy around, to boot!” —Paul Lysek, beverage director, Odell’s Bagel, Denver
“The term ‘supermarket wine’ may sometimes conjure up mega purple engineered wine from labels with murky ownership. However, a winery like Dr. Konstantin Frank in New York’s Finger Lakes region can be found at chains such as Wegmans and Specs and is a wine with a sense of history and place. The Semi-Dry Riesling is the easiest to find, with an incredible balance of acidity and sweetness born from the climactic influence of Seneca and Keuka Lake. Don’t sleep on the Saperavi, though, if it’s on the shelf. This is a Georgian grape that is finding a second home in New York State!” —Torrey Grant, wine director, Leonetta, NYC
“The Italian white wine Soave, from the Veneto region, is a great steal you may see in a few stores. Preferably, you’ll find a Soave by the family-owned estate Pieropan. The wine is made from Garganega grapes from Soave Classico; the region’s higher altitude and volcanic limestone soils make a crisp, dry, aromatic, mineral pleaser with white stone fruit and long, zesty finish. This is one that we love with our Gulf seafood! If you can’t find Pieropan, look for Inama, which is also a family-owned estate.” —Taylor Adams, sommelier/general manager, The Kingsway, New Orleans
“My go-to ‘supermarket wine’ for the summer months is the Penedès Blanc Selecció, Huguet de Can Feixes 2023. It is a serious, pure, and true expression of youthful indigenous white grape varieties Parellada, Macabeo, and Xarello. These grapes are more commonly associated with Cava production in Spain’s Penedès region, but in this bottling, they are offered as a still white wine with crisp, mineral-driven fruit characteristics. A wine that is as fun to drink as it is to say! One hundred percent certified organic and it typically retails around $19.”—Nikki Ledbetter, wine director, 53, NYC
“When I shop for wine at the supermarket, I seek out varieties I’ve barely heard about — that’s half the fun. I love Garganega white wines, and Cantina Pra’s Otto Soave Classico is such a great value. I’ll also grab a Malvasia from northern Italy or Slovenia; there’s just something about that texture and lemon curd flavor. For reds, I gravitate toward Schiava — Untermoserhof is a standout from Italy’s Alto Adige region. I’ll also seek out a vibrant Australian Pinot Noir from Mac Forbes or, if I’m splurging, William Downie.” —Sam Maher, owner, Somebody People, Denver
“I always grab Picpoul de Pinet when I spot it on the grocery store shelves. Trader Joe’s and Aldi are both bound to have one. A crisp, reliable white from Languedoc, it’s a ‘wait, what’s this?’ kind of crowd pleaser that can stretch itself equally to the Sauvignon Blanc fanatics and the Riesling acolytes. Lovely pear and floral notes, it’s priced to sell, great with seafood, and perfect to just sip on and not think too much about.” —Pamela Vachon, wine educator, Night Inn/Murray’s Cheese, NYC
The article We Asked 8 Sommeliers: What Supermarket Wine Do You Secretly Love? appeared first on VinePair.