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Around the World with Honey Cakes

From the gingerbread-like honey cakes of Brazil to the honey-soaked Farina Cake of Egypt, we’re examining four classic honey cakes and the places they call home. 

JAKE COHEN  ON HONEY CAKE

The author of the new cookbook Jew-ish: A Cookbook: Reinvented Recipes from a Modern Mensch offers some sweet insight and a sweeter recipe for his Rosh Hashanah-ready Apples and Honey Upside-Down Cake

ROSH HASHANAH ROOTS

“Honey cake, and the traditions surrounding Rosh Hashanah, feels especially important to secular Jews like myself. We don’t necessarily keep with all the traditions, but when it comes to high holy days, like Rosh Hashanah, those are the most important days of the year. Whether you’re religious or nonreligious, you still celebrate them no matter what. Rosh Hashanah, as the celebration of the new year, is full of symbolism. Eating something sweet portends having a sweet year. Apples and honey are classic sweet things we incorporate into the many meals. In my nontraditional twist, I envisioned a honey cake with the added value of caramel apples.”

HONEY HERITAGE

“Honey cakes are really a part of the Ashkenazi Jewish tradition. In Eastern Europe, where the Ashkenazi people lived, it was common for bakers to sweeten their pastries with honey. Because, before there was sugar, there was honey, which was much easier to get and use. And then, wherever the Jews have gone, like the US, there’s been local honey on hand.”

FOOD THAT BINDS

“When we think of food and Judaism, so much of it is tied to gathering with your loved ones. Rosh Hashanah is one of the most important times for Jewish families to gather, a beautiful moment to wish the ones close to you future prosperity, joy, and hope. Even though I’m secular, being Jewish is a huge part of who I am, defining the way I am, the way I eat, and the way I cook. To me, this recipe and the others in my cookbook, Jew-ish, are a way to preserve my heritage. It’s a love letter to growing up Jewish and then how I’ve taken the identity and made it my own.”

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Apples and Honey Upside-Down Cake

Makes 1 (9-inch) cake

Recipe by Jake Cohen

There are two reasons to make an upside-down cake: One, to highlight ripe seasonal fruit by slowly caramelizing it and then covering it in a cake batter that will soak up all its bubbling juices. Two, because you just cannot be bothered to make a layer cake with the headache of all the cooling, frosting, and decorating. I’ll be completely honest: I teeter between the two. While I love the seasonality of alternating among rhubarb, blueberries, peaches, plums, apples, and fall squashes throughout the year, I also love that the whole thing just gets flipped out of one pan and I’m done. Sure, these two reasons hold for this apple-studded beauty, but there’s a third: I needed a dessert to serve at Rosh Hashanah. To add another layer of Judaism, the apples are topped with a rich honey cake batter to keep with the holiday motif. Served warm, saturated in browned butter and caramel, this dessert will flip anything you knew about honey cake upside down—literally.

Ingredients

Nonstick cooking spray, for greasing3 small Honeycrisp apples (453 grams), cored and sliced into 8 wedges each¾ cup (150g) granulated sugar3 tablespoons (45 grams) water1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter1 cup (336 grams) honey, plus more for garnish (optional)¾ cup (180 grams) whole buttermilk, room temperature2 large eggs (100 grams), room temperature½ cup (100 grams) firmly packed dark brown sugar1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract2 cups (270 grams) all-purpose flour2 teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground cinnamon1 teaspoon (1 gram) freshly grated nutmeg½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking powder½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking sodaWhipped cream, for garnish (optional)

Instructions

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Line a high-sided (no less than 2½ inches high) 9-inch round cake pan with parchment paper cut to fit and grease with cooking spray.
Line the bottom of the prepared pan with apple wedges, arranging them in concentric circles, then shingle any remaining slices in the center.
In a medium saucepan, combine the granulated sugar with 3 tablespoons (45 grams) water. Cook over medium-high heat, shaking the pan as needed, until an amber caramel forms, 6 to 8 minutes. Immediately pour the caramel over the apples in an even layer.
In another medium saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Cook, stirring continuously, until browned and nutty in aroma, 6 to 8 minutes. Pour the melted butter into a heatproof large bowl and let cool slightly, then whisk in the honey, buttermilk, eggs, brown sugar, and vanilla until smooth.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, baking powder, and baking soda to combine. Add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients in three additions and fold until just incorporated after each. Pour the batter over the caramel-coated apples. Bake for 1 hour 10 minutes to 1 hour 20 minutes, until the top is golden and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Cover with foil after 1 hour to prevent excess browning, if needed.
Let cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then run a paring knife around the edge of the cake. Place a plate over the cake pan and invert them together, then lift off the pan and remove the parchment. Let the cake cool slightly, then serve warm. Top with whipped cream and drizzle with honey, if desired.

Notes

Excerpted from Jew-ish: A Cookbook: Reinvented Recipes from a Modern Mensch © 2021 by Jake Cohen. Photography © 2021 by Matt Taylor-Gross. Reproduced by permission of Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. All rights reserved.

 

AMIRA IBRAHIM  ON BASBOUSA

The Egyptian baker and cook behind the blog Amira’s Pantry shares her recipe and story behind the classic Egyptian honey cake

AN EGYPTIAN CLASSIC

“Basbousa is one of the earliest traditional desserts that kids can try, as it is easy to chew on. So, I probably started enjoying basbousa when I was 2 or 3 years old. In Egypt, everybody tries to make the perfect basbousa at home. My first attempt was about 17 years ago, and I’ve been baking it ever since.”

GATHERINGS AND RAMADAN

“Honey is enjoyed in Egypt by everyone, as it is one of the main things to eat with Egyptian feteer (a layered baked pastry that is very common). Basbousa itself has always been tied to happy moments and special occasions—like Ramadan gatherings, taking it as a gift when visiting family and friends, enjoying it during family gatherings on Eid, and sometimes, it is served during wedding parties as well. Basbousa is enjoyed year-round but especially during the holy month of Ramadan, when classic desserts have a special place on the table.”

TRICKS OF THE TRADE

“I would say basbousa is common in both bakeries and at home, but many give up trying after a couple of fails and they turn to get it from bakeries, as it is widely available and not that expensive. Basbousa needs a bit of patience to get the hang of it. Sometimes, it will not come out perfect, but promise it will be tasty. It is really easy to master—just give it a couple of tries and do not give up.”

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Basbousa

Makes 1 (9-inch) cake

Recipe by Amira Ibrahim

Basbousa, an Egyptian semolina cake with yogurt, is one of the best Egyptian desserts that comes out fairly quickly. It’s a one-bowl, mix-and-dump kind of recipe, yet it’s hard to perfect. An authentic Egyptian basbousa recipe should be soft and stay soft. A delicious coconut, yogurt, and semolina/farina cake gets sprinkled with nuts and drizzled with syrup to add the final seal of perfection. “Basbousa”/“basboosa” is also a term in the Middle East that refers to a very sweet semolina cake. In Arabic, we can call our loved ones “basbousa”; I sometimes call my little kid “basbousty,” which means “my basbousa,” or “my sweet.”

Ingredients

½ cup (113 grams) plus 1 tablespoon (14 grams) ghee, divided½ tablespoon (10 grams) tahini1⅔ cups (306 gram) farina*½ cup (116 grams) granulated sugar½ cup (42 grams) unsweetened flaked coconut (optional; see Note)½ tablespoon (6 grams) baking powder1 tablespoon (21 grams) honey½ cup (97 grams) plain yogurt½ cup (71 grams) whole raw almonds (optional)Syrup (recipe follows)

Instructions

Position oven racks in center and top third of oven. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Brush a 9-inch round cake pan with 1 tablespoon (14 grams) ghee and tahini.
In a deep large bowl, stir together farina, sugar, coconut (if using), and baking powder until well combined.
In a small saucepan, melt remaining ½ cup (113 grams) ghee over medium heat. Stir in honey until combined. Pour ghee mixture into farina mixture, and stir together until well combined. Stir in yogurt until well combined. Spread batter into prepared pan. Arrange almonds (if using) on top as desired.
Bake on center oven rack until edges start to brown, about 10 minutes. Move to upper oven rack, and bake until golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes more. Turn oven off.
Immediately pour Syrup over cake, and cover with foil. Place in oven for5 to 10 minutes. Remove from pan, and serve warm.

Notes

*We used Cream of Wheat.

Notes: Using flaked coconut is optional. If you do not like it, omit it and proceed with the recipe as directed. However, we highly recommend adding 3 to 4 tablespoons (15 to 20 grams) flaked coconut, as coconut helps with the texture and you will not taste such a small amount.

 

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Syrup

Makes about 1 cup

Recipe by Amira Ibrahim

Ingredients

1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar1 cup (240 grams) water2 tablespoons (42 grams) honey1 teaspoon (5 grams) fresh lemon juice½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla extract

Instructions

In a small saucepan, combine sugar, 1 cup (240 grams) water, honey, lemon juice, and vanilla, and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat to medium-low, and cook for 10 minutes. Remove from heat, but leave in saucepan to help keep syrup warm.

Notes

Notes: It is best to make the Syrup when the Basbousa is moved to bake in the top third of the oven.

You can flavor the syrup with vanilla extract as directed, or try a cinnamon stick, rose water, orange blossom water, or without any extra flavorings.

 

 

ASHA SHIVAKUMAR  ON SOUTH INDIAN HONEY CAKE

The author of Masala & Meatballs: Incredible Indian Dishes with an American Twist tells the story of the vibrant honey-soaked South Indian honey cake

IYENGAR INFLUENCE

“It’s one of South India’s favorite cakes. It originates with one of the original Iyengar bakeries, businesses run by the Iyengar people and known for the quality, freshly baked breads. These bakeries were opened in the late 1800s and took many baking traditions from the British. It’s a simple British white cake, but the owners brought their own touch by adding orange, honey, cardamom, and coconut, which is very popular in India.”

SWEET MEDICINE

“In South India, we don’t often bake with honey. It’s viewed more as a medicinal product. I remember my grandmother giving it to me for my sore throat. She’d mix honey, turmeric, and ground pepper and serve it to me in a teaspoon. What makes this cake really special is that we soak it with honey rather than baking it with honey. When you combine orange juice and honey, it becomes this wonderful, floral syrup that makes this cake so special.”

A CAKE FOR ALL OCCASIONS

“With my cookbook, I wanted to show all the different facets of Indian cooking and baking. It’s not fusion—it’s the authentic food you would find in India but made accessible. And this cake has become one of the most popular recipes from the book, not just with bakers but with my family. It’s the cake for every birthday. My two sons have asked for it, my husband asks for it; everyone loves it.”

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Honey Cake

Makes 1 (8-inch) cake

Recipe by Asha Shivakumar

This is a very popular South Indian cake found in bakeries. It almost tastes the same and is an absolute favorite among friends, too. If you love honey and coconut, this might be something you will fall in love with. This sponge cake is doused with orange, honey, and cardamom syrup, and it sits with the sweet syrup on top, slowly getting soaked in. The more it soaks, the better it gets.

Ingredients

Syrup: cups (360 grams) water1 cup (65 grams) unsweetened flaked coconut1 cup (320 grams) orange blossom honey¼ cup (60 grams) fresh orange juiceDrop of red food coloring (optional)Drop of orange food coloring (optional)½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground cardamomCake:1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, softened1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar4 large eggs (200 grams), room temperature¼ cup (60 grams) whole milk, room temperature1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract2 cups (240 grams) all-purpose flour1 tablespoon (8 grams) baking powder¼ teaspoon kosher salt

Instructions

Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). Spray an 8-inch square baking pan with baking spray with flour.
For syrup: In a medium saucepan, stir together 1½ cups (360 grams) water, coconut, honey, orange juice, and food colorings (if using). Bring to a boil over medium heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from heat, and stir in cardamom. Let cool.
For cake: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat butter at medium speed until light and fluffy. Add sugar, ¼ cup (50 grams) at a time, beating well after each addition. Add eggs, one at a time, beating until combined after each addition. Add milk and vanilla in a slow, steady stream, beating until combined.
In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, and salt. Fold flour mixture into butter mixture. (Do not overmix.) Pour into prepared pan.
Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 40 to 50 minutes. Let cool in pan for 20 minutes.
Using a wooden pick, pierce warm cake all over. Stir syrup, and pour it over cake. Let stand for at least 2 hours before serving.

 

ROSANA MCPHEE  ON PÃO DE MEL

Rosana McPhee, a Brazilian ex-pat located in the United Kingdom, offers a glimpse into the history of pão de mel and a recipe from her blog, Hot & Chilli.

BRAZILIAN BEGINNINGS

“I’m Brazilian, but I’ve been living in England for the past 30 years. I started my blog as a way to collect all the recipes I used to make with my mother. I was the youngest of four, and I grew up sitting on the counter, helping her in the kitchen. My mother wanted me to be a good cook—but my grandmother was the baker. She was half-German and half-Brazilian, and she had a very old cookbook that she used for pão de mel. So, we’ve always been baking it.”

GERMAN GINGERBREAD MEETS BRAZILIAN FLAVORS

“Back in the day, this recipe was very traditional to its European roots, a classic German gingerbread cake. But we kept contributing Brazilian flavors, like dulce de leche and brigadeiro. Brigadeiro is like Brazilian fudge or chocolate truffles. So, basically, we thought, “Oh, why don’t we add a filling to this pão de mel?” In Brazil, everything is chocolate because it such an important commodity. We like our chocolate.”

BAKERY BITE

“It’s very common for pão de mel to be found in Brazilian bakeries. We have it with coffee or dessert. The flavor of our pão de mel is very hot, strong, and spicy. We like a little bit more of everything—more chocolate, more spice, just more. I think because we live in a tropical climate, we like to have it taste that way.”

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Pão De Mel (Brazilian Spiced Chocolate-Honey Cakes)

Makes 20 to 22 (3-inch) cakes

Recipe by Rosana McPhee

These mini cakes are a Brazilian version of European gingerbread but covered with melted chocolate to prolong the flavor and moisture. Brazil is a melting pot of diverse nationalities, and while gingerbread is usually eaten as a Christmas cookie in Europe, in Brazil, we eat our version—pão de mel—any time of the year. Nowadays, pão de mel have various types of fillings and toppings but are traditionally covered in dark chocolate—cacao being one of Brazil’s important commodities—making them interesting for party decorations, gifts, souvenirs, or simply served as tea cakes. They are found with ease in Brazil, as they are commonly homemade. This particular recipe makes very fluffy and moist cakes.

Ingredients

2 cups (280 grams) all-purpose flour½ cup (60 grams) Dutch process cocoa powder teaspoons (3 grams) ground cinnamon1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking soda1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking powder½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground cloves teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon ground nutmeg teaspoon ground ginger (optional)2 large eggs (100 grams), room temperature1 cup (225 grams) whole milk, room temperature½ cup (85 grams) muscovado sugar½ cup (125 grams) honey1 tablespoon (14 grams) unsalted butter, room temperature1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract2 (13.4-ounce) cans (696 grams) dulce de leche2 (42 grams) tablespoons honey17.5 ounces (500 grams) 70% cacao dark chocolate, melted

Instructions

Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Butter 20 to 22 muffin pan wells, or butter a 12×8½-inch rimmed baking sheet.
In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, cocoa, cinnamon, baking soda, baking powder, cloves, salt, nutmeg, and ginger (if using).
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment, beat eggs at high speed until very foamy and pale yellow. Add milk, muscovado sugar, honey, butter, and vanilla. Add flour mixture, and beat at medium-low speed until well combined. Spoon batter into prepared wells or prepared baking sheet.
Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 15 to 20 minutes for muffin pans or 20 to 25 minutes for baking sheet. Let cool completely in pans.
Line a rimmed baking sheet with plastic wrap; place a wire rack on top. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
If using muffin pans, slice each cake in half horizontally. Spread 2 tablespoons dulce de leche on bottom half of cakes, and cover with top half of cakes. Place on prepared wire rack.
If using a baking sheet, using a 3-inch round cutter, cut cake. Spread 2 tablespoons dulce de leche on top of half of cakes, and place remaining cakes on top. Place on prepared wire rack.
Pour melted chocolate over cakes until fully covered. (Reuse chocolate collected on baking sheet, if necessary.) Place cakes on parchment-lined pan, and let stand until chocolate is set. Drizzle with remaining dulce de leche.

Notes

Notes: Level the cakes in muffin pans, if necessry. As soon as the cakes come out of the oven, take them out of the pans, and place them on a plate. Add another plate on top of them, and settle with a weight fora few moments to ensure their surface level is straight.

It’s a nice Brazilian gesture to package up each little cake and give it as a present.

The post Around the World with Honey Cakes first appeared on Bake from Scratch.

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