Before Espresso Martinis, Pousse Cafés Dominated After-Dinner Drinking

Your speed may vary on digestifs and other classic after-dinner drinks — sambuca’s not for everyone. But before the public was sipping bitter amari or guzzling Espresso Martinis, the Pousse Café was all the rage for post-supper service.

In 19th century France, one would be hard pressed to find a dinner that didn’t conclude with a Pousse Café. Traditionally served following coffee, the drink actually evolved from a different version of a very similar creation that went by a near-identical name. The Chasse Café, as it was known, translates from French to “coffee chaser” — and the drink was exactly that: a small glass of one or a few spirits or liqueurs that was intended to be downed quickly to chase the coffee. The drink first rose to prominence in the 1700s and was reportedly enjoyed across France to conclude a meal. But something shifted in the 1800s.

In 1851, the first known record of what is now known as the Pousse Café emerged. And it had one key difference from its predecessor — the various liqueurs were to be served in layers. The earliest versions of the Pousse Café typically contained between three and five distinct layers, with bottles like Chartreuse, maraschino liqueur, curaçao, Bénédictine, eau de vie, and/or brandy. To build the drinks, bartenders would add the densest liquid first before pouring each liqueur, gradually growing less dense, over a bar spoon to maintain a distinct stack. In contrast with the Chasse Café, the Pousse Café was intended to be consumed slowly, so that each individual layer could be savored individually.

It’s likely that both the layered version of the drink and the term Pousse Café were in circulation for years before 1851, but having literature on the drink launched it to new heights. In contrast with the cocktail specs of today, the Pousse Café was based more on appearance than a set recipe. It’s likely what made the drinks so popular in the first place — there are endless versions one can make and enjoy. But that didn’t stop certain specs from rising above others.

One such recipe is the Pousse l’Amour, which appeared in Jerry Thomas’s iconic 1862 cocktail book “How to Mix Drinks.” In the book, Thomas describes the tipple as a “delightful French drink,” made with maraschino liqueur, egg yolk, vanilla cordial, and brandy. To make it, one must first fill a small wine glass halfway with the liqueur before carefully adding the egg yolk and vanilla cordial. Then, the whole thing gets topped with Cognac.

It’s around this same time that the drink started gaining popularity in the United States, particularly in areas like New Orleans and New York City. In fact, two other Pousse Café recipes included in Thomas’s book — Santina’s Pousse Café and Faivre’s Pousse Café — came from proprietors of bars in Nola and NYC, respectively.

As the drink gained popularity into the 20th century, it continued to evolve and expand, with some versions including seven or more layers. Early 20th-century Pousse Cafés also tended to include liqueurs like crème Yvette, crème de cacao, and even sweet cream. Around the turn of the century, the drink even got its own dedicated glassware — a small, stemmed, flared glass designed to hold three ounces of liquid or less. Then came Prohibition.

The ban on alcohol from 1920 to 1933 understandably damaged the popularity of the Pousse Café, perhaps even more so than other alcoholic beverages. While some could still get their hands on things like illicit gin or whiskey, it was much more challenging to track down between three and seven distinct products to layer atop one another. And while the drink experienced a slight boost in popularity in the years following repeal day, the post-World War II period saw its final decline.

By the 1970s, the Pousse Café had almost entirely disappeared and in its place rose the cream-based after-dinner cocktails that dominated the disco era. Rather than being visually arresting for their layers, these drinks were often brightly colored shaken concoctions. Take the Grasshopper as an example. The classic cocktail combines green crème de menthe, white crème de cacao, and half and half, but rather than stacking one atop the next, all three ingredients are shaken together.

The Brandy Alexander is another. Despite being created sometime around 1916, the Cognac, crème de cacao, and cream cocktail didn’t become particularly trendy until the ‘70s when people were shaking them up post-supper with abandon. While some may turn their noses up at these sweet, creamy drinks today, they were arguably more balanced and enjoyable than the layered Pousse Café.

Instead of appearing in after-dinner applications, at the tail end of the 20th century, the layering technique was mostly relegated to the world of colorful shooters, where they became associated with young, inexperienced drinkers. The most famous of the bunch, the B-52, is still one of the most popular shot orders today, made by layering Grand Marnier, Baileys, and coffee liqueur. It’s not too far off from a Pousse Café, but probably much more delicious than seven random liqueurs in one glass.

The article Before Espresso Martinis, Pousse Cafés Dominated After-Dinner Drinking appeared first on VinePair.