The Surprising Origin Story of the Jell-O Shot

“Let’s do Jell-O shots!”

This simple phrase is a rallying cry to inject ritualistic irreverence into any occasion. Traditionally infused with vodka, the wiggly gelatin cubes instantly signify the house party or backyard shindig you’re attending is more than likely about to get turnt. Their presence at a cocktail bar nullifies any chance of pinkies-out pretentiousness forming in the space. No matter where you encounter them, Jell-O shots almost always signify there are good times ahead.

Part of the Jell-O shot’s charm is its subversive nature. It’s a silly, sneaky booze delivery system cleverly wrapped up in a classic dessert that likely evokes a childhood memory or two.

Sneaky subversion is the reason why the modern Jell-O shot exists in the first place. It didn’t debut at some raging three-day house party, nor did it spawn from the minds of a couple frat boys. Rather, it began its jiggly existence at a naval base thanks to Tom Lehrer, a legendary satirist (and mathematician to boot) that in contemporary terms may arguably be best described as a proto-Weird Al Yankovic.

A Sneaky Way to Booze It Up

Lehrer was best known for his work as a musical satirist, with a storied career that intertwined humor, music, and education. Throughout the 1950s and 1960s, he became a household name with songs ranging from cheeky black humor (“Poisoning Pigeons in the Park,” which is exactly what the title suggests) to biting political satire (like “We Will All Go Together When We Go,” an anti-war song about nuclear holocaust). He also taught math and musical theater during and after his recording career. He possessed a brilliant mind and a disruptive streak — perfect traits for inventing boozy mayhem.

Before his star rose, Lehrer served in the Army. In 1956, while working at a naval base in Washington D.C., Lehrer was invited to an on-site Christmas party. Alcoholic beverages were strictly prohibited at the event; instead of seeing a deterrent, Lehrer saw an opportunity. He and a friend began making Jell-O with booze instead of water. After a night’s worth of experimenting with different spirits and gelatin flavors, they determined orange Jell-O and vodka were the winning combination. They made up a batch and served it cubed in little cups. Lehrer brought them to the party without so much as a raised eyebrow from the Marine guarding the party’s entryway. A drinking tradition was born.

Credit: @silverlyan via Instagram

The History Before the History

There’s a caveat to Lehrer’s Jell-O shot invention. While this account is generally accepted by the drinking community as the shot’s creative touchstone, it only pertains to the notion of the Jell-O shot as it exists today. Infusing booze into jiggly textured edible things has been around for a long time.

“If you go back to medieval times, like around the 14th century, you’ll find recipes for wine-flavored gel set in stock made from fish bladders,” explains Jack Schramm, co-owner of the elevated gelatin shot company Solid Wiggles in New York City.

Champagne-infused jellies were also prominent during the Gilded Age of the late 19th century. Rather than simple shots, however, these jellies were usually served in the form of elaborately sculpted molds known as ­“gelée macédoine.” They served the exact opposite of the modern Jell-O shot’s purpose — rather than being a casual, whimsical experience for everyone, they were symbolic of status, wealth, and better-than-you elitism. “Those Champagne jellies definitely belonged in the ‘things for rich people’ category,” explains Alex Leidy, general manager at Silver Lyan in Washington, D.C. “If you’re going to credit Tom Lehrer with inventing the Jell-O shot, it may be better to say he came up with boozy Jell-O for the people.”

New Ways to Wiggle

And the Jell-O shot continues to evolve. Solid Wiggles takes the Gilded Age’s notion of using gelatin as an ornate wiggly canvas and compresses it into inventive bite-size cocktail-inspired cubes consisting of various high-quality spirits and freshly squeezed juices. This creates something culinarily mind-bending and oddly familiar at once: The finished product may look like a 3-D version of a Mark Rothko painting and taste like a French 75, but they still go squish in your mouth just like the basic Lehrer-esque shots you took at the dorm parties back in the day. “We’re maximalist in a big, goofy way,” Schramm says. “Our shots are all about reclaiming the things we loved that may have been terrible when we were young and making them good. We also just want to have fun, especially at times when whimsy is needed.”

At Silver Lyan, Leidy and his team set their house-made Jell-O shots in citrus rinds, finish them with salt and sugar, and present them to guests with a Champagne chaser. “It’s almost like taking a tequila shot in reverse,” Leidy explains. He also notes that presentation enhances the focus on an element that can arguably be taken for granted when you’re squeezing the plastic ramekin to loosen its grip on the gelatin.

“A Jell-O shot requires intention,” he says. “It’s not the same as pouring something into a shot glass. It requires planning. It contains a tangible energy that can only come from someone making something for another person. It doesn’t feel like a shot so much as it feels like a moment.”

Credit: @solidwiggles via Instagram

A Lasting Legacy

Dale DeGroff is not a fan of Jell-O shots, regardless of who created their modern iteration.

I found this out a couple years ago, when I attended a lecture on amaro DeGroff held in Los Angeles. Toward the end of his talk, he casually mentioned his dislike for the shots. I honestly can’t remember the exact reason for his disdain, but he made it quite clear where he stood on the concept. I approached DeGroff after the session. After quickly catching up with him, I couldn’t resist delivering the briefest of anecdotes.

“By the way,” I asked, “did you know that Tom Lehrer was the guy that created the Jell-O shot?”

His response was swift and humorously deadpan. “That sonofabitch.”

Of course, just because Jell-O shots aren’t DeGroff’s cup of tea, it doesn’t mean they don’t hold value in the modern drinks space. They very much do and will continue to do so for a simple reason. Regardless of how fancy or elaborate a Jell-O shot looks, each still carries a touch of sneaky, naughty subversion within its jiggly soul, much like Lehrer’s original version did when he needed a way to smuggle booze to a party all those years ago.

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