From Santorini to the Canary Islands: 7 Volcanic Wine Regions Beyond Mt. Etna Worth Exploring
Mount Etna’s recent eruption reminded the world just how powerful volcanoes can be. For wine lovers, lava flow isn’t something to fear; rather, it’s celebrated as the source of compelling terroir. And while Etna, even when not exploding, often steals the spotlight, other regions around the world boast these unique soils.
“Volcanic wines” is an umbrella term for wines made from highly complex and varied soils originating from those fiery, smoking craters. During explosions, different volcanoes emit different types of lava, with varying levels of silicon dioxide. Along the way, the outflow picks up and moves other matter down hillsides and into valleys, creating unique layers of soil, all of which contribute to standout wines. It’s challenging terroir to farm, given the often hot, rugged terrain. In the case of Etna, you have to be somewhat of an adrenaline junkie to want to work in proximity to an active volcano, day in and day out.
But on the plus side, volcanic soils are inhospitable to pests and disease, which makes organic farming easier than in many other regions. The soils have also preserved old indigenous grape varieties. Trademark styles of volcanic wines include high acidity, salinity, and nuanced savory — rather than fruit — flavors in the forefront.
Some wine regions that benefit from volcanic soils are no longer home to active volcanoes, but still boast the complex, layered soils from eruptions of the past. Here are seven other volcanic regions beyond Mount Etna to know for wine.
Soave, Italy
Sixty-five million years ago, Soave was underwater. But subterranean explosions in fissures where the African plate had collided with the Eurasian plate created volcanoes. Over millions of years, the explosions started filling in the lagoon where Soave now stands. Volcanoes haven’t been active for 25 million years, but you can still taste the imprint on the wines. Garganega is the main grape here, although Trebbiano di Soave and Chardonnay sometimes make their way into blends. Like Chardonnay, Garganega is a fairly neutral grape that does a great job of expressing terroir. Orchard fruit, high acidity, and a through-line of acidity shine in the best wines. Producers to try: Suavia, Inama, and Pieropan.
Santorini, Greece
The island is due for a big eruption in the next 20 years, said Yiannis Paraskevopoulos of Gaia Wines in 2023. Located in what’s called the Hellenic Volcanic Arc, Santorini sits in one of the most volcanically active areas in the world. That hasn’t stopped the tourists from coming, however — or winemakers from tending to their centuries-old vines. Because of the dry and windy climate, vines are often trained in a basket shape, low to the ground. This protects vines from flying debris and breakage. The lack of disease pressure makes it possible to find vines over 200 years old. When it comes to wine, the island is best known for the zippy, mineral-driven white variety Assyrtiko. While it’s grown elsewhere in Greece, no other region matches the depth of flavor, concentration, and acidity of Santorini. Producers to try: Gaia Wines, Domaine Sigalas, and Estate Argyros.
Canary Islands, Spain
Volcanoes played a major role in developing the Canary Islands’ wine industry. On the one hand, volcanic explosions, such as a major one in Tenerife in 1706, closed ports and stunted trade. But at the same time, being closed off from international influence allowed native grapes to flourish. And given that phylloxera never made an entrance, old-vine varieties like Listán Blanco and Listán Negro found a new generation of fans when intrepid winemakers started revitalizing the industry in the 1980s and 1990s. Lanzarote, another island in the archipelago, is also defined by its rocky, black volcanic terrain. Viticulture here can be pretty challenging: The intense heat and winds make the typical vine training patterns impossible, so producers here hand-dig individual holes in the ground called “hoyos” for each of the vines, protecting each one with a small rock wall around the edges. The Producers to try: Bodegas Los Bermejos, Bodega Matías i Torres, and Bodegas Viñátigo.
Tokaj, Hungary
Active volcanoes millions of years ago left their mark on the Hungarian landscape. While the tension and minerality from the soils can be felt throughout the country’s dry reds and whites, it adds a new dimension to one of the world’s most famous sweet wines: Tokaji Aszú. Botrytis develops from the nighttime fog that blankets vineyards, transforming Furmint, Hárslevelú, and Yellow Muscat grapes into shriveled, sweetened orbs. As John Szabo notes in his book, “Volcanic Wines,” some producers believe the soils, with their mineral content, protect the vines from nefarious rot, much as salt preserves food. Taste-wise, the savory, saline qualities give these sweet wines an edginess that elevates them above other sweet wines. Producers to try: Royal Tokaji and Oremus.
Willamette Valley, Ore.
Much of the Willamette Valley soil conversation centers around marine sedimentary soils, particularly in AVAs such as Yamhill-Carlton and Ribbon Ridge, but it’s only half the story. Volcanic Jory soil — known for its red color and well-draining properties — dominate in the Dundee Hills, Eola-Amity Hills, and Chehalem Mountains AVAs. (Jory soil was actually named the state soil of Oregon in 2011.) In general, volcanic soils give more red fruit qualities to Willamette’s iconic Pinot Noirs, while marine sediment offers a darker fruit expression. Producers to try: Evening Land, Bergström Wines, 00 Wines, and CHO Wines.
Auvergne, France
For a long time, the famous beverage in Auvergne was water — Vichy water from the namesake town’s natural springs, to be specific. But in recent years, a coterie of natural winemakers sprung up in this volcanic region in central France. As mentioned before, volcanic soils favorably aid organic viticulture and, by extension, low-intervention winemaking. The grape garnering the most attention is Gamay d’Auvergne, which yields darker and spicier wines than other Gamays in France. Producers to try: Marie and Vincent Tricot, Verdier-Logel, and Henri Chauvet.
Lake County, Calif.
The Lake County AVA, located north of Napa and Sonoma, boasts some of the highest elevation vineyards in California, with the dormant Mt. Konocti volcano and other mountains defining the terrain. The volcanic soils, along with large diurnal shifts and high UV exposure, produce red wines with grippy tannins, ample acidity, and a ton of body. Cabernet Sauvignon is the signature red variety, but a whole cornucopia of other varieties, including Zinfandel, Mourvèdre, Grenache, and Petite Sirah thrive in the altitudinous vineyards. Producers to try: Obsidian Ridge Wine Co., Brassfield Estate, and Six Sigma.
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