We’re Recapping Chilled 100 ELEVATE: The History of Vermouth 

The History of Vermouth Seminar at ELEVATE 2023 was presented by Steven Dragun, United States Ambassador Bodegas Lustau.

Photos by Justin Harrison

What are Vermouth and Sherry?

Vermouth is a fortified wine, distilled spirit added to increase the alcohol proof. Then, various herbs, plants, and species are infused into the base. The word Vermouth comes from the German Wermut for wormwood, the principal ingredient in Vermouth in Germany in the 16th Century. During this time, wormwood was combined with cinnamon and cloves and was used mainly for stomach intestinal parasites.

Sherry is also a fortified wine produced in Spain. The difference from vermouth is that it is a blend of wine and distilled spirits and goes through more stages in its production. Its alcohol content is usually a bit higher than that of vermouth.

Evolving of Vermouth and Sherry.

By the late 1700s, vermouth evolved into two varieties. One variety is dry and bitter, and the other is red and sweeter, which Merchant Antonia Benedetto Comparano introduced in 1786 in Turin, Italy, and caught the attention of the royal court of Turin. Fashionable cafes served it as an aperitif.

By the end of the 18th Century, Vermouth was beginning to be used more by bartenders for more than for medical purposes. They discovered Vermouth mixed well with other spirits. Bartenders created the Manhattan, chilled vermouth with a twist of lemon peel, and sherry became popular.
Emilio Lustau SA Origins Begin 1986 Mr. Jos Ruiz-Berdejo, a secretary to the Court of Justice, planted vines on the family’s estate in Spain. He sold the wine to larger sherry Producers. Then, in 1931, his daughter bought an adjacent winery and moved their soleras (containers of various aged wines) to the Centre of Jerez de la Frontera. Thus, Lustau became visible to a larger market.

In the 40s, Emilio Lustau Orteo moved the winery to the old Santiago district in the historic district of Jerez de la Frontera. New buildings helped expand the business, which continued to sell wine for use by other Sherry producers.

By 1945, Emilio decided to stop sending produce to other companies and started to produce the brands Papirusa, Jarana, and Escuadrilla. In 1950, they started exporting their products.

The beverage industry took notice of Lustau under the direction of Rafael Balao. Lustau became one of the most innovative companies in the area. Before long, they were bottling their own sherry and the Vintage Series was born in 1989.

Lustau’s Merge

In 1990, it merged with Luis Caballero, a Spanish and wine spirits business. Now, Lustau is in the 19th-century buildings in the Centre of Jerez. The buildings have been restored to their original design and house the Luis Caballero’s Group sherry production.

The popularity of vermouth and sherry declined during the mid-20th Century in the United States. Still, it continued to be popular in Europe, especially Italy, France, and Spain, where it was a popular aperitif.

The Future of Vermouth

Vermouth has experienced a revival in the United States, with growing interest among bartenders now exploring innovative combinations. They are utilizing vermouth crafted from grapes like Clairette Blanche, Piquepoul, Bianchetta, Trevigiana, and Cattaratto, skillfully blended with an array of spices including cloves, marjoram camomile, and juniper. These new vermouth variations open exciting possibilities for fresh cocktail creations and contribute to heightened awareness of vermouth itself.