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Baking School In-Depth: Île Flottante

The origin of this beloved French dessert can be traced back to 1651, when François-Pierre de la Varenne, the father of classic French cuisine, recorded the first recipe in his cookbook Les Cuisinier François for oeufs à la neige, or “eggs in the snow,” which was made without custard. Instead, he created piles of egg whites adorned with egg yolks. Over time, the egg yolks became part of a luscious vanilla custard called crème anglaise, creating the French dessert now considered a classic.

Our version stays true to this timeless dessert with its delightful combination of softly poached meringues atop a pool of crème anglaise. The crème anglaise begins its journey as the poaching liquid for the meringues and is transmuted into a rich and creamy custard, perfectly complementing the airy meringue. Candied Almonds add a lovely textural contrast and final touch of sophistication. Follow along as we guide you through the straightforward process of making these impressive and effortless Îles Flottantes.

Be sure to join us for Baking School with Williams Sonoma on Monday, April 15, at 5 p.m. PT. Brian Hart Hoffman will take you step-by-step through making these picture-perfect Îles Flottantes. Brian will also show you how to master French Meringue Kisses. This is one baking event you won’t want to miss!

Click here to download a printable PDF of this lesson!

INGREDIENT BREAKDOWN

Excellent recipes require wonderful ingredients. Here’s how our recipes’ ingredients contribute to making Île Flottante.

EGG WHITES: Water and protein make up egg whites, and when whipped, the protein and water molecules combine to create a stable foam. Eggs are easier to separate when cold but whip up faster and with more volume at room temperature. Separate your eggs when cold and let the whites stand to come to room temperature. Make sure there’s no yolk in your egg whites, as fat inhibits the whites from whipping.

CREAM OF TARTAR: Cream of tartar stabilizes the whipped egg whites by keeping the proteins in the egg whites from sticking to each other, helping them hold their volume and providing impressive lift to the meringues.

KOSHER SALT: Our salt of choice, kosher salt is a pure, mined, additive-free salt that dissolves readily and has a crisp, clean taste. It’s flaked rather than granulated, which allows for more-even distribution in each component of our Île Flottante.

GRANULATED SUGAR: Adding sugar does more than add sweetness; it serves as a stabilizer to keep the meringue from collapsing, helps prevent the crème anglaise from curdling, and adds a caramelized flavor and golden-brown color to the Candied Almonds.

WHOLE MILK: Also known as full-fat milk, whole milk is cow’s milk that hasn’t had any of its natural fat content removed. It is typically 3.5% milk fat, making it rich, with a slightly thick consistency. It is perfect for gently poaching the meringues and then using it as the base for the crème anglaise.

HEAVY WHIPPING CREAM: In addition to the whole milk, heavy whipping cream also improves the texture and overall decadence of the crème anglaise.

EGG YOLKS: The crème anglaise owes its rich, smooth texture to the magical emulsifying properties of egg yolks, which contain a lipid called lecithin. As the yolks coagulate, the protein structure changes due to heat, resulting in a runny mixture slowly transforming into a velvety, thick sauce. Additionally, the egg yolks are responsible for the iconic pale-yellow color of the crème anglaise.

VANILLA BEAN: We love using the seeds scraped from a flavorful and incredibly aromatic vanilla bean for a lovely, speckled appearance and classic concentrated flavor. If you don’t have a vanilla bean on hand, you can substitute vanilla bean paste.

SLICED ALMONDS: Almonds are a classic addition to this timeless French dessert. As a final flourish scattered onto fluffy meringues and silky crème anglaise, they create a delicious contrast of texture and flavor.

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Île Flottante

Makes 6 servings

Ingredients

6 large eggs (300 grams), separated and room temperature1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, divided1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar1⅓ cups (266 grams) plus 1/2 cup (100 grams) granulated sugar, divided cups (360 grams) whole milk, divided1 cup (240 grams) heavy whipping cream1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds scraped and reserved (or 1½ teaspoons [9 grams] vanilla bean paste)Candied Almonds (recipe follows), to serve

Instructions

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat egg whites, 1⁄4 teaspoon salt, and cream of tartar at medium speed until frothy. With mixer on medium speed, gradually add 1⅓ cups (266 grams) sugar, a few tablespoons at a time. Slowly increase mixer speed to high, and beat until medium-stiff peaks form, 3 to 4 minutes.
In a large shallow saucepan, heat 1 cup (240 grams) milk, cream, 1⁄4 cup (50 grams) sugar, and vanilla bean and reserved seeds over medium-low heat, stirring frequently, just until steaming. (Do not boil.) Reduce heat to low, and maintain a gentle simmer. (Do not let the milk mixture come to a boil. If the mixture becomes too hot, it will scald and the meringues will puff too much and overcook.)
Gently spoon 2 to 3 scoops of meringue directly on top of each other (for height) to equal 1⁄2 cup (65 grams) into heated milk mixture. Cover and steam meringues for 2 to 3 minutes. (They will spread slightly and be shiny but hold their shape. They are easier to handle when cooled completely, so using a spatula to remove them from the cream mixture may be easier if your meringue spreads wider than a slotted spoon.) Using a slotted spoon or large slotted spatula, remove meringues, and transfer to a paper towel-lined baking sheet. Repeat with remaining meringue. Let cool completely.
In a medium bowl, whisk together egg yolks, remaining 1⁄4 cup (50 grams) sugar, and remaining 1⁄4 teaspoon salt.
Strain warm milk mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into egg yolk mixture, discarding solids. Whisk until well combined. Return mixture to saucepan, and add remaining 1⁄2 cup (120 grams) milk, whisking constantly. Cook over medium-low heat, whisking constantly, until mixture begins to thicken and coats the back of a spoon and an instant-read thermometer registers 180°F (82°C). Strain crème anglaise through a clean fine-mesh sieve into a medium bowl or large liquid- measuring cup. Cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until cool, at least 1 hour.
To serve, pour about 1⁄2 cup (about 72 grams) crème anglaise in each serving dish, and top with meringue. Sprinkle with Candied Almonds. Serve immediately.

 

 

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Candied Almonds

Makes about 1⁄2 cup

Ingredients

1 teaspoon (4 grams) unsalted butter1/2 cup (57 grams) sliced almonds tablespoons (18 grams) granulated sugar1/8 teaspoon kosher salt

Instructions

In a large skillet, melt butter over medium-high heat. Stir in almonds, sugar, and salt until combined. Cook until sugar is melted and caramelized, 2 to 4 minutes. Immediately pour onto parchment paper, and carefully separate almonds while still warm. Let cool completely. Store in an airtight container for up to 5 days.

 

 

MAKING THE MERINGUE

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat egg whites, 1⁄4 teaspoon salt, and cream of tartar at medium speed until frothy. With mixer on medium speed, gradually add 1⅓ cups (266 grams) sugar, a few tablespoons at a time. Slowly increase mixer speed to high, and beat until medium-stiff peaks form, 3 to 4 minutes.
 
It’s important to add sugar at the right time when making French meringue. Adding sugar after the egg whites become frothy creates a thick, satiny foam that will remain even after you stop whisking. If you add sugar before the egg whites reach the frothy point, the meringue won’t whip up properly.

POACHING THE MERINGUES

1. In a large shallow saucepan, heat 1 cup (240 grams) milk, cream, 1⁄4 cup (50 grams) sugar, and vanilla bean and reserved seeds over medium-low heat, stirring frequently, just until steaming. (Do not boil.) Reduce heat to low, and maintain a gentle simmer. (Do not let the milk mixture come to a boil. If the mixture becomes too hot, it will scald and the meringues will puff too much and overcook.)

2. Gently spoon 2 to 3 scoops of meringue directly on top of each other (for height) to equal 1⁄2 cup (65 grams) into heated milk mixture. Cover and steam meringues for 2 to 3 minutes. (They will spread slightly and be shiny but hold their shape. They are easier to handle when cooled completely, so using a spatula to remove them from the cream mixture may be easier if your meringue spreads wider than a slotted spoon.) Using a slotted spoon or large slotted spatula, remove meringues, and transfer to a paper towel-lined baking sheet. Repeat with remaining meringues. Let cool completely.

Covering the pan when cooking steams the meringues beautifully and prevents the need to turn them, resulting in effortlessly poached meringue islands.

CREATING THE CRÈME ANGLAISE

1. In a medium bowl, whisk together egg yolks, remaining 1⁄4 cup (50 grams) sugar, and remaining 1⁄4 teaspoon salt.

2. Strain warm milk mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into egg yolk mixture, discarding solids. Whisk until well combined. Return mixture to saucepan, and add remaining 1⁄2 cup (120 grams) milk, whisking constantly. Cook over medium-low heat, whisking constantly, until mixture begins to thicken and coats the back of a spoon and an instant- read thermometer registers 180°F (82°C). Strain crème anglaise through a clean fine-mesh sieve into a medium bowl or large liquid-measuring cup. Cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until cool, at least 1 hour.

When preparing crème anglaise, it is essential to keep whisking the mixture. This will guarantee that the custard thickens uniformly, as it tends to thicken more at the base, corners, and sides of the pan where there is more direct heat. Whisking also ensures that the custard is heated evenly so that no part of it scalds. To check whether the crème anglaise has thickened to the ideal consistency, dip a spoon or spatula into the mixture and then run your finger through the mixture on the utensil. If the line made by your finger stays, the mixture has thickened to the correct consistency, also known as the “nappe consistency.”

MAKING THE CANDIED ALMONDS

1. In a large skillet, melt butter over medium-high heat. Stir in almonds, sugar, and salt until combined. Cook until sugar is melted and caramelized, 2 to 4 minutes. Immediately pour onto parchment paper, and carefully separate almonds while still warm. Let cool completely. Store in an airtight container for up to 5 days.

THE ASSEMBLY

1. To serve, pour about 1⁄2 cup (about 72 grams) crème anglaise in each serving dish, and top with meringue. Sprinkle with Candied Almonds. Serve immediately.

Using a long, wide spatula makes transferring the fluffy meringue onto the custard a breeze.

The post Baking School In-Depth: Île Flottante first appeared on Bake from Scratch.

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