Albariño is a quintessential summer white wine. The popular Spanish grape variety tends to be light and refreshing with its ample acidity. It’s easy to drink on its own and an excellent companion to all kinds of seafood and appetizers. At a recent gathering, I was poured a glass of Albariño from Long Island’s North Fork, where the grape has taken root, as it has in Virginia and California, among other regions.
But Albariño is at its best in Galicia, the cool, coastal region in northwest Spain, where it plays a starring role in wines from a number of appellations, most notably Rías Baixas. In Portugal, just across the border from Rías Baixas, it’s known as Alvarinho and is a principal grape in Vinho Verde and other wines.
One of the things I love about Albariño from Rías Baixas is its fresh and briny character. It’s not exactly salty, but a more subtle saline touch that must come from the region’s proximity to the sea. (Rías Baixas, which translates to “lower estuaries,” refers to the inlets from the Atlantic Ocean that extend into the region.) The soils of Rías Baixas are mostly granitic and alluvial, which give the wines their pronounced minerality.
Despite its typically light and easy-drinking character, derived from the now-standard practice of aging it in stainless steel tanks, Albariño can also show more depth and complexity from aging on the lees and in large oak barrels.
While most of the wines are sold young for current drinking, Albariño can also age well — one excellent example I tasted was from the 2015 vintage but, alas, is not available here. Sparkling Albariños are also worth considering if you can find them.
There are five subzones of Rías Baixas, each producing wines with a slightly different character, and several of them are represented in the list below. Quite a few of them are priced at $20 or under, making them great values given the dimension of the wines.
An important note: As with all white wines, Albariños show their best qualities when they’re only moderately chilled. The aromas and flavors will be obscured when they’re first poured from a cold refrigerator, coming alive as they warm up in the bottle and the glass.
Here are nine of the best Albariños from Rías Baixas:
The label on this widely available wine is fitting, showing the rocky coast of Galicia and suggesting that this is an excellent fine for fish and shellfish. A saline note combines with floral and citrus aromas and flavors, mainly lime and orange. The wine aged in a combination of stainless steel and larger oak barrels, 15 percent of them new, lending an extra layer of texture on the palate.
Price: $22
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Aged for at least four months on the lees, this Albariño has a rich mouthfeel that frames notes of green apple skins, lemon-lime pith, and touches of orange. Hints of herbs and minerals emerge on the finish.
Price: $24
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Beautifully balanced and fresh, this wine has stone fruit and herbal aromas, then flavors of white peach and peach skin, a touch of cream from lees aging, and a subtle mineral note. All the elements are just right in this bargain wine.
Price: $20
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Crisp and mineral, the wine opens up nicely, revealing aromas of flint, grapefruit, dried stone fruits, and flowers. On the palate, apricot, honeysuckle, and orange rind notes combine with a hint of cream. Like many of these wines, it’s a great alternative to Sauvignon Blanc.
Price: $16
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As it warms up a bit, the complexity of this first-rate Albariño becomes apparent. The nose offers a hint of eucalyptus, followed by notes of white peach, melon, and lime on the palate. Mediterranean herbs and a touch of vanilla are nice accents.
Price: $20
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The grapes for this outstanding old-vine Albariño are sourced from a small single vineyard. The wine is aged in large old barrels and the result is an Albariño of depth and balance. There’s a range of fruit on the nose and palate — ripe green apple, pineapple, orange and strawberry, a tropical hint. Accents of herbs and minerals complete the picture in this elegant, memorable wine. A bit more expensive than some, but well worth it.
Price: $31
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There’s lush fruit in this wine — white peach, cantaloupe, candied lemon and orange — but it’s supported by tangy acidity that makes it both a notable food wine and a perfect aperitif choice. Lees aging gives it a rich mouthfeel.
Price: $19
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From one of the largest vineyard owners in Rías Baixas, a wisp of sea salt announces this wine on the nose, along with apple and white grapefruit notes that extend to the palate. The fruit is accented by flowers and herbs, including a touch of mint. The wine’s bracing acidity is softened by a nice creamy layer on the long finish.
Price: $18
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A burst of grapefruit comes through on the first whiff of this wine, continuing on the palate along with more citrus, pineapple, and honey notes. Hints of rosemary, thyme and a touch of salt add to its complexity.
Price: $26
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Next up: The cru wines of France’s Muscadet.
The article 9 of the Best Albariños From Spain’s Rías Baixas appeared first on VinePair.