Stories and recipes by Erin Jeanne McDowell
There are not many desserts as comforting—or as simple—as those made with a base of hot, bubbly fruit tucked beneath a butter-rich topping that soaks up some of that juicy goodness underneath. Unlike its fussier cousin, the pie, these desserts are easy to make, come together quickly, and don’t need to be cooled before serving! They are a true celebration of in-season fruit, perfect for baking throughout summer with whatever you have on hand. Here, you’ll find the one-stop, ultimate guide for these sweet classics so you can bake up your own unique variations all summer long!
First up, let’s define what we’re talking about here. Would a simple fruit dessert by any other name be as sweet? Turns out, yes! You can bake up one of these beauties with whatever you’ve got on hand.
COBBLER: Perhaps the most commonly used term, the fruit is topped with crumbled or dolloped biscuit dough before baking.
CRUMBLE: The fruit is topped with streusel before baking.
PANDOWDY: The fruit is topped with pieces of pie dough or pastry dough before baking.
All of those above are featured here in full, but there should be a few additional honorable mentions as well:
BETTY: The fruit is topped with buttered cubed bread (I love brioche, challah, or milk bread) or buttery bread crumbs before baking. For an even sweeter take, try topping it with cubed pound cake or angel food cake.
CROBBLER: A completely made-up term by me; the fruit is topped with croissant dough before baking.
CRISP: This is similar to a crumble but features a crisper, often oat-studded topping before baking.
BUCKLE: This delicious variation is topped with cake batter or buttery crumb topping. Get the recipe to make your own.
SLUMP OR GRUNT: This is a tasty combination of stewed fruit that’s topped with simple soft dumplings, which poach in the mixture, making the bottoms soft and juicy, while the tops stay chewier. Get the recipe to make your own.
SONKER: Very cobbler-adjacent but known for being juicier (very little thickener used), it’s often served ice cream or “milk dip,” a sweetened dairy sauce. Get the recipe to make your own.
One Base to Start Them All
Luckily, all of these tasty options begin with the same base fruit filling. The good news is this recipe is about as flexible as they come. Have a little bit of extra fruit? Sure, toss it in. Want to serve a crowd? Double the recipe and bake it in a bigger pan, no problem! When fruit is perfectly ripe in peak summer, you can adjust the sweetness to taste, but be sure to add at least the base quantity of sugar called for, which helps draw out moisture from the fruit and make it perfectly saucy.
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Any Fruit Base Filling
Makes enough for 1 (9×9-inch/23cmx23cm or 10 cup/2.36 L) pan
Unsalted butter, for greasing pan6½ cups (906 grams/2 pounds) prepared fruit (see step 2; if using frozen fruit, no need to thaw)½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar (or more to taste)Up to ¼ cup (28 grams) cornstarch (see Notes)½ teaspoon fine sea saltDesired add-ins (see Notes)Desired topping (see following recipe)
Generously butter a 9-inch/23cm square baking pan, and place an oven rack in the center of the oven.
Prepare the fruit as needed. Peel the fruit if desired (truthfully, I love to leave the skin on most fruits), and slice or chop into roughly bite-size pieces; it’s OK for them to be varied in size. Be sure to weigh the fruit after preparing it.
Place the prepared fruit in a large bowl.
Whisk the sugar, cornstarch (see Notes), and salt in a small bowl to combine. Add the sugar mixture to the fruit, and toss well to combine. If using any add-ins, add now, and toss well to combine.
Spoon the filling into the prepared pan, and finish with the topping of your choice. (Look for specific baking instructions in the following recipes.)
Notes: Some fruits, like berries or stone fruit, require thickeners to ensure the juiciness doesn’t overtake the cobbler. Others, like apples or pears, may not need much (7 grams/1 tablespoon) or any at all!
Check out some of the ideas below for additional ways to get creative and boost the flavor of your filling.
Boost Your Fillings
There are lots of simple ways to add more layers of flavor to your summer fruit bake. Here are some of my favorites:
citrus zest or up 2 tablespoons (30 grams) fresh citrus juice
Up to 1 tablespoon (18 grams) vanilla bean paste or (13 grams) vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon almond extract (especially excellent with stone fruit like peaches or cherries)
1 to 2 tablespoons (15 to 30 grams) balsamic vinegar
Up to 1 tablespoon (9 grams) ground spices (like cinnamon, ginger, cardamom, nutmeg, or a combo)
Up to 2 tablespoons (5 grams) chopped fresh herbs (like rosemary or thyme)
Topping Time
Once you’ve readied your fruit filling, it’s time for the finishing touch. This is also the moment to add more flavor and texture to your final bake. Try stirring some chopped toasted nuts into a crisp or crumble topping, or fold chopped chocolate into a cobbler topping—all awesome options! Stir ground spices into any topping you like for another layer of flavor. While you can leave it at that, there’s also the option to add delicious finishes to top your toppings:
Egg wash helps brown the surface of cobbler and pandowdy toppings. To make egg wash, whisk 1 large egg (50 grams) with 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water.
Melted butter adds incredible flavor and helps promote browning. Some of the butter will melt into the filling, making it richer. Start by using 2 tablespoons (28 grams), or more to taste.
Heavy whipping cream is similar to melted butter but not as effective of a browning agent, and what falls into the filling makes a delicious creaminess (with a tasty melted-ice-cream effect when paired with fruit). Start by using about 3 tablespoons (45 grams). Drizzle it or brush it over the surface.
Sugar is a wonderful finisher, particularly for toppings that don’t contain much or any sugar, like pandowdy and cobbler. Try turbinado sugar, sanding sugar, or even granulated sugar, and add to taste.
Now, Time to Bake
Finally, all that’s left is nailing the perfect bake. Above, we include recipes for a pandowdy, cobbler, and crumble—each offering its own delicious spin. While temperatures and bake times can vary by topping, these are typically baked at 375°F (190°C) or 400°F (200°C) on an oven rack positioned in the center for the most-even baking. No matter the variation, there are some clear cues to keep an eye out for: a vigorously bubbling filling and a golden brown topping.
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Pandowdy Topping (Pie or Pastry Crust Topping)
10 ounces (285 grams) All Buttah Pie Dough (recipe follows), well chilledEgg wash (see left), as needed for finishingTurbinado, sanding, or granulated sugar (see above), as needed for finishing
On a lightly floured surface, roll out the All Buttah Pie Dough to ¼ inch (6 mm) thick.
The dough can be transferred as one big sheet of dough on top of the fruit filling, or the dough can be cut into pieces of any size (we chose stars) and placed on top of the filling, slightly overlapping each piece to create full coverage.
Egg wash the surface of the dough, and sprinkle generously with sugar. (If you use one large sheet of dough, be sure to cut a few vents into the surface of the dough with a paring knife.)
Bake in a preheated 400°F (200°C) oven with the rack in the center for 40 to 50 minutes, until the topping is browned and the filling is bubbling vigorously.
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All Buttah Pie Dough
1½ cups plus 2 tablespoons (225 grams) all-purpose flour½ teaspoon fine sea salt¾ cup (170 grams) cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch (1cm) cubes6 tablespoons (90 grams) ice water, plus more as needed
In a large bowl, whisk together the flour and salt. Add the cubed butter, tossing the cubes through the flour until each individual piece is well coated. “Cut” the butter into the flour by pressing the pieces between your fingers, flattening the cubes into big shards. As you work, continue to toss the butter through the flour, recoating the shingled pieces.
For a flaky crust, continue cutting the butter into the flour just until the largest pieces of butter are about the size of walnut halves (some pieces will be smaller). For a mealy crust, continue to work the mixture together until the largest pieces of butter are about the size of peas (some pieces will be smaller).
Make a well in the center of the flour mixture. Add the amount of ice water listed in the recipe to the well, but have more on hand. Use a tossing motion with your hands to start to mix the two together (this begins to combine them without creating too much gluten). As it begins to become hydrated, you can start to use more of a kneading motion to bring the mixture together.
Add more water about 15 grams/1 tablespoon at a time until the dough is properly hydrated; it should be uniformly combined and hold together easily, but it won’t look totally smooth. Dough that is too dry may have sort of a “dusty” appearance or pockets of un-hydrated flour. It will not hold together and will appear crumbly. Dough that is too wet will feel sticky or tacky to the touch, and is often smoother and/or lighter in color.
Form the dough into an even disk (if you are multiplying the recipe to make multiple crusts, divide the dough appropriately). Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes to 1 hour.
Optional steps: On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough to about ½ inch/1 cm thick (the exact shape and size doesn’t matter here, just the thickness.) Brush away any excess flour from the surface of the dough, and fold it in half horizontally. Then, fold the dough in half again (you’ve now folded it into quarters).
If the dough feels sticky or soft to the touch, re-wrap it in plastic wrap, and refrigerate it for 30 minutes before proceeding. If it doesn’t, repeat step 6.
Tuck the ends of your folded dough under itself to create a round disk of dough. Wrap it tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, and up to 2 days before using. Or freeze for up to 3 months (thaw overnight in the refrigerator before using).
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Crumble Topping (Streusel Topping)
¾ cup (90 grams) all-purpose flour1/3 cup (73 grams) firmly packed light or dark brown sugar½ teaspoon ground cinnamon¼ teaspoon fine sea salt6 tablespoons (84 grams) cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch (1cm) cubes
In a medium bowl, mix the flour, brown sugar, cinnamon, and salt to combine. Add butter, and toss well to ensure each piece is well coated with flour mixture. Use your hands or a pastry cutter to cut the butter into the flour mixture until the mixture forms moist crumbs. The streusel can be used immediately as crumble topping—sprinkle it over the surface. Or it can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 days.
Bake in a preheated 375°F (190°C) oven with the rack in the center for 35 to 45 minutes, until the topping is browned and the filling is bubbling vigorously.
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Cobbler Topping (Biscuit Topping)
Try this recipe, or use 11 ounces (315 grams) of your favorite biscuit dough, prepared and chilled well.
1¼ cups (150 grams) all-purpose flour1½ teaspoons (6 grams) baking powder¼ teaspoon fine sea salt3 tablespoons (42 grams) cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch (1cm) cubes½ cup (115 grams) cold buttermilk
In a medium bowl, whisk the flour, baking powder, and salt to combine. Add the cubed butter, and toss until each piece is coated well with flour mixture. Use your hands or a pastry cutter to cut the butter into the flour, mixing until it’s well incorporated into the flour mixture; you should almost not be able to see it anymore.
Make a well in the center of the bowl, and add the buttermilk. Stir until the dough comes together. If it appears dry, crumbly, or visibly floury, add more buttermilk, 1 tablespoon (15 grams) at a time, until the dough comes together.
The dough can be used immediately as a cobbler topping—crumble it over the surface, leaving some fruit uncovered. Or the dough can be wrapped tightly and refrigerated for up to 24 hours.
Bake in a preheated 375°F (190°C) oven with the rack in the center for 35 to 45 minutes, until the topping is browned and the filling is bubbling vigorously.
The post Your Guide to Summer Fruit Desserts first appeared on Bake from Scratch.
