The Next Great Whisky Might Come from France

Q&A with Jean-Baptiste Robert, CEO of Crillon Importers

For decades, conversations about whisky have centered around Scotland, Ireland, Kentucky, and, more recently, Japan. But according to Jean-Baptiste Robert, CEO of Crillon Importers and a member of the family behind the century-old Distilleries et Domaines de Provence, the next chapter of whisky is being written in unexpected places.

Under Robert’s leadership, Crillon Importers has introduced pioneering spirits to the U.S. market while championing French craftsmanship and terroir-driven whisky. Rather than chasing tradition, Robert believes the future of whisky lies in grain selection, soil, and educating consumers to appreciate flavor above all else.

Whisky continues to be one of the most dynamic spirits categories worldwide. From your perspective as an importer, what trends are shaping the global whisky market right now?

For the U.S., we see the “established” categories such as Scotch, Irish whisky, and more recently Bourbon and Japanese quite challenged. Consumers are searching for innovation, yet unlike vodka, innovation is not about flavoring the original spirit. What we see with whisky is consumers searching for innovation through cask origins, such as ex-Chardonnay wine, ex-Tequila, or ex-Cognac, as well as from the soil where the grain is grown, whether that’s France, Taiwan, or elsewhere, and the quality of the grain itself.

How have consumer preferences around whisky evolved over the past few years, particularly in the United States?

We see a growing call for taste. It’s been that way since the pandemic, as far as we could observe. Americans are searching for broader, more sophisticated aromas and flavors.

What styles or regions of whisky are seeing the most growth and curiosity among bartenders and enthusiasts?

For corn and rye whiskies, we hear people asking for whiskies from the Rockies or the lower Mississippi plains. For barley, the new regions increasingly requested are France, Germany, and to a lesser extent, Australia.

While Scotland and the United States have historically dominated the whisky conversation, we’re seeing growing interest in whiskies from other regions. How are European producers outside of Scotland contributing to the category’s evolution?

Rather than an evolution, it’s more a return to the source, in the sense that new regions are using the varieties of barley Scotland and Ireland were using in the 1700s, originally grown for beer production. These varieties have a broader palate.

Whereas the uniqueness of Scotch and Irish whisky lies in peat, water, distillation methods, and aging, in the newer European regions the uniqueness of a single malt, and ultimately its quality, lies in the variety of barley and its aromatic profile. The quality of traditional whisky regions is highly technical. In mainland Europe, especially for single malts, quality is biological. It comes from the soil.

French whisky in particular has been gaining attention in recent years. What makes French whisky distinct in terms of production, terroir, or flavor profile?

French soil is very rich in trace minerals and especially appropriate for growing grains. It applies to bread, malt, and whisky alike. The organoleptic profile that terroir gives to cereals is directly linked to the trace minerals contained in the soil.

A barley grown in France, regardless of how it’s malted, distilled, or aged, will naturally have a broader bouquet. That’s why French whiskies are often praised for their terroir-driven profile, especially when they’re crafted from 100% malt. Those blended with wheat tend to dilute some of that specificity.

How are distillers in emerging whisky regions balancing tradition with innovation?

In France, there are two types of whisky producers. Former brewers who decided to distill part of their malt, and former eau-de-vie distillers who began using their pot stills for malt.

The former eau-de-vie distillers remain traditional in their distillation process while innovating with malt selection. Former brewers do the opposite. They stay with their familiar malt but experiment with new distillation techniques.

How are bartenders incorporating whisky into modern cocktail programs today?

Being an importer with a distiller background, my expertise is selecting the product. There are many people more qualified than me to speak about cocktails. What I can say is that I see quite a bit of audacity from mixologists when using French whisky. The same bartender may be more conservative with Scotch but much more adventurous with French whisky. I suppose trying a new origin opens the door to more creativity.

Are you seeing more interest from bartenders in exploring lesser-known whisky categories or producers?

Definitely. We’re getting demand for new origins. We also receive questions we never expected. Someone recently asked, “Is your land granitic?” Last month, I was asked whether we had a whisky distilled from small spelt, an ancient cereal traditionally used for bread in southern France.

What makes a whisky particularly appealing to the bar community from a mixing standpoint?

It has to bring something existing whiskies don’t. Otherwise, why introduce a new brand? That difference has to be organoleptic. It’s not about social status like Cognac. It’s about the liquid itself, what it delivers to your palate and how it structures a cocktail.

What production elements, such as grain selection, cask aging, or climate, have the biggest influence on a whisky’s character?

For us, climate and aging are less important than they are in Great Britain or Ireland. Here, it’s predominantly about grain selection. The cask comes next.

How are distillers experimenting with maturation or finishing techniques to create unique expressions?

With new oak casks, the forest where the oak grew can create perceptible differences that contribute to the diversity of flavor profiles.

With previously used casks, many are ex-Bourbon or ex-Scotch, but some are ex-Burgundy, ex-yellow wine, or ex-straw wine. These all contribute additional layers of flavor to the finished whisky.

As the whisky category grows more diverse, how important is storytelling and education in helping consumers understand these spirits?

I would favor education over storytelling.

It’s important to explain the diversity of distillation techniques, such as pot still versus column still, and how grain selection and production choices ultimately create the flavor profile you’re trying to achieve.

The more we educate consumers about how whisky is crafted and its organoleptic profile, the more consumers will care about taste instead of image and packaging.

What are some misconceptions about whisky that you frequently encounter?

I don’t encounter many misconceptions. Rather, I encounter a lack of understanding. Many people simply don’t know how whisky is actually made.

What developments in the whisky world are you most excited about over the next few years?

We’re seeing distillers experimenting with entirely new grains, including varieties that have been forgotten since the Roman Empire. I’m very excited to discover the whiskies they’ll eventually produce.

Are there any emerging whisky-producing regions that you think will surprise people?

I believe regions with limestone soils will surprise people because of the mineral, stony, and chalky characteristics they bring to the grain, especially barley.

What advice would you give to consumers or bartenders who want to start exploring whisky beyond the classic categories?

Don’t judge them using the same criteria you’d use for classic whisky. Instead, judge these new whisky-producing regions by the sophistication of their flavor.