We Asked 16 Sommeliers: What’s the Most Underrated Pinot Noir?
Though it has centuries of history in Burgundy, great quality Pinot Noir can now be found in every corner of the world, from the volcanic Otago peninsula in New Zealand to the high plateaus of Greece’s Amyndeon region. Across these different areas, Pinot Noir offers a wide variety of expressions, from dense, fruit-forward examples full of juicy cherry and strawberry notes to delicate versions with subtle hints of earth and spice.
The number of Pinot Noir styles available across a world of winegrowing regions can be overwhelming, and often results in sticking to your default pick at the store. But exploring underappreciated producers and regions can yield delightful results — and often at a cheaper price point. To discover which wines deserve more time in the spotlight, we asked 16 sommeliers to name the most underrated Pinot Noir on the market right now. From up-and-coming German Spätburgunders to fresh, coastal Californian wines, here’s what they said.
The most underrated Pinot Noir, according to sommeliers:
Redbank Pinot Noir 2021
German Pinot Noir
Sante Arcangeli Split Rail Vineyard Pinot Noir
San Luis Obispo Coast Pinot Noir
Belle Pente Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
Greek Pinot Noir
The Ojai Vineyard ‘Fe Ciega Discípulo’ Pinot Noir 2021
Japanese Pinot Noir
Argentinian Pinot Noir
Niedrist Pinot Nero Riserva 2020
By Farr ‘Farrside’ Pinot Noir
New Zealand Pinot Noir
Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial Coteaux Bourguignons
Domaine Michel Magnien Coteaux Bourguignons
Marine Layer ‘Lyra’ Pinot Noir
Walker Bay Pinot Noir
“For me, the most underrated Pinot Noir is the 2021 Redbank Pinot Noir from King Valley, Australia. I was fortunate enough to find this randomly, and it blew my mind. Light, fresh, and irresistible, it’s out the door for $20 at my shop, and people LOVE it!” —Thomas Price, beverage director, 1856 – Culinary Residence, Auburn, Ala.
“German Pinot Noir! The wine coming out of Baden especially has had the majority of sommeliers’ attention for years, and the general public is slowly catching on as well. Herbal and light in body, but deeply complex — they’re wines for enjoyment as well as contemplation. I predict that these wines will only get better as the region’s producers’ experience grows and climate change takes more effect. Wasenhaus and Enderle & Moll are my favorite Pinot Noir producers in Germany, but if you can get your hands on a bottle of Wasenhaus’ single vineyard Möhlin, you’re in for a real treat.” —Christian DiNello, wine director, Indienne and Elder, New York City
“The Santa Cruz Mountains don’t get the recognition they deserve, and the Sante Arcangeli Split Rail Vineyard Pinot Noir is a beautiful example of why they should. Grown at 1,700 feet, it offers expressive aromas of pine, redwood forest, and freshly sanded cedar that keep drawing your nose back to the glass. Light on its feet and wonderfully elegant, it reveals a spicy cranberry, red cherry, and blackberry fruit profile.” —Lance Tolaio, beverage director, Sam’s Grill, San Francisco
“Pinot Noir from the San Luis Obispo Coast is some of the most exciting, fresh examples of Pinot Noir that I’ve experienced recently. With voices like Lady of the Sunshine, Scar of the Sea, and Phelan Farm, among others, there is no shortage of dedicated winemakers who are also very connected to the vineyards; often, they are the ones farming. The sites are a stone’s throw from the bay, giving the Pinot Noirs a unique lift and vibrancy, a slight umami edge with delicate red berry, and spice unique to this special place.” —Kim Prokoshyn, sommelier and general manager, Dunn & Sons Wine, Yarmouth Port, Mass.
“At Lansdowne in Portland, Ore., We proudly celebrate Pacific Northwest wines exclusively, and Pinot Noir is king! With its bright acidity, silky-smooth tannins, and expressive red-fruit flavors, we love how Pinot Noir from our own ‘neighborhood’ can be youthful and approachable while still offering elegance, depth, and complexity — making it the perfect partner for our thoughtful, seasonal menu. My absolute favorite Willamette Valley Pinot Noir comes from Belle Pente, whose wines beautifully capture the soul of the valley and a true sense of place!” —Owen Perry, wine director, Lansdowne, Portland, Ore.
“When we think of Pinot Noir, Greece is probably not the first country that comes to mind, and that is exactly why it deserves a closer look. From northern Greece to the Peloponnese, diverse climates, elevations, and soils offer intriguing possibilities for this delicate variety; producers such as Papaioannou, Moschopolis, and Alpha Estate are worth discovering. Greek Pinot Noir remains an under-the-radar discovery for wine lovers willing to look beyond the usual suspects.” —Despoina Karapostolaki, sommelier, Delos Greek Restaurant, NYC
“The greatest source of underappreciated Pinot Noir may be the German region of Baden. Bernhard Huber, now helmed by his son Julian, is an incredible producer crafting Burgundy-level quality in his home region of Malterdingen. The wines are always ripe, textured, and elegant. The cooler climate helps keep alcohol levels lower, resulting in brilliantly drinkable Pinot!” —Ryan McGuinness, assistant manager and beverage director, Shipwright’s Daughter, Mystic, Conn.
“I recommend Ojai Vineyard Fe Ciega ‘Discípulo’ Pinot Noir from Sta. Rita Hills, California. This wine hovers under the radar. It’s not flashy, rich, fruity, or sweetly luscious; it’s earthy, iron-driven, and floral, with notes of amaro and an inviting structure. Maybe it’s because of its locality, or maybe the name is too tricky to pronounce.” —Mandy Monzyk, wine director, Miller & Lux, San Francisco
“Japan is still overlooked as a source of Pinot Noir in the U.S., and Coco Farm’s 2021 Pinot Noir deserves more attention. Coco Farm is based in Ashikaga, Tochigi, but this wine is made in Hokkaido using grapes grown in Yoichi. The unusually hot, dry 2021 growing season gave it rich, ripe berry flavors, aromas of spice and smoked meat, and a smooth, full-bodied texture. At Soba Ulala, I love it with our Wagyu or beef soba, as the generous fruit complements the richness of the beef and the sweet and savory flavors of the broth.” —Hirohisa Hayashi, owner, chef, and sommelier, Soba Ulala, NYC
“These days I’m super into Pinot Noir from Germany. The country seems to be benefiting from the climate changes happening across the world. Whereas I used to think German Pinot was a bit tart (too cool of a climate for it), now it is spot on for it and thriving! Some producers to watch for are Leipold and Enderle & Moll. And another area I am loving is Altamira in Mendoza. It is the highest elevation region in Mendoza, and it also benefits from being right at the heel of the Andes mountains that divide Argentina with Chile. Chalk and limestone soils and a cool climate make for really incredible Pinot. Finca Suarez, a seventh generation winemaker, is starting to export its Pinot Noir, and another favorite of mine is the Canopus project.” —Tamy Rofe, wine director and co-owner, Colonia Verde and Ibérico, Brooklyn
“The world’s fascination with Pinot Noir often overlooks hidden gems high in the alpine valleys of Alto Adige. The Niedrist Pinot Nero Riserva 2020 is an elegant expression of Pinot Noir from Alto Adige, where alpine influences, dramatic diurnal temperature shifts, and mineral-rich soils create wines of remarkable finesse and precision. Produced by the esteemed Niedrist family in the hills surrounding Cornaiano, the wine reflects the estate’s commitment to meticulous vineyard management and restrained winemaking. The 2020 vintage offers expressive aromas of wild cherry, raspberry, rose petal, and subtle baking spice, complemented by earthy undertones and finely integrated oak. Silky tannins, vibrant acidity, and a lingering mineral finish give this wine a beautiful balance of Burgundian elegance and distinctive Alpine character.” —Jason Alexander, wine director, Back Home Hospitality, San Francisco
“By Farr’s ‘Farrside’ Pinot Noir remains one of the most overlooked values in fine wine, offering a level of complexity, structure, and terroir expression that would command a considerably higher price in Burgundy. Grown in the cool climate of Geelong, Farrside combines depth and concentration with the elegance, savory complexity, and mineral tension often associated with Burgundy’s finest premier cru vineyards. The Farr family brings decades of experience in the vineyard and cellar, with a winemaking philosophy shaped by their work in both Australia and Burgundy and a deep understanding of the land they farm. Farrside is a compelling example of what Australian Pinot Noir can achieve, offering the character, pedigree, and age-worthiness of serious Burgundy without the price that so often accompanies its reputation.” —Christian Shaum, sommelier, Asador Bastian, Chicago
“I want to mention New Zealand Pinot Noir, which often punches well above its price point, effortlessly combining New World fruit generosity with Old World elegance, earthiness, and complexity. There’s impressive diversity, too, from the bold, concentrated wines of Central Otago to the savory, structured Pinots of Martinborough and the fragrant expressions of Marlborough, with a strong commitment to sustainable viticulture across the country. And please don’t judge a wine by its screw cap; New Zealand puts some seriously spectacular Pinot Noir under these closures, proving that great wine doesn’t need a cork to have class!” —Ola Rybka, sommelier, TIYA, San Francisco
“In an age where the great Pinot Noirs of Burgundy are becoming increasingly more expensive, I find myself still wanting a great glass of Burgundy with my roasted chicken on a Wednesday evening. The wines of Coteaux Bourguignons have been my solution to this conundrum as of late. Created under its current name in November 2011, it covers a large geographic area where winemakers are legally allowed to source fruit, and many of the top producers in Burgundy have used this to their advantage to produce a more affordable entry into their portfolios. Do your research before purchasing, because this appellation also allows Gamay and it is often blended with Pinot Noir in this AOC. Two of my favorites are from Vincent Dureuil-Janthial and Michel Magnien, they provide incredible value and overdeliver for the price of every vintage.” —John Leight, sommelier, Salamander Middleburg, Middleburg, Va.
“As a California restaurant uplifting local and sustainable producers, we are truly privileged to feature Marine Layer’s ‘Lyra’ Pinot Noir at Tomat. This wine has been on our by-the-glass menu for many moons, and continues to be a revelation to our guests. The production methods are as impressive as the end product — the fruit is picked by hand at night from select Sonoma sites that celebrate a variety of microclimates and Pinot Noir clones, fermented with 35 percent whole clusters, and then barrel aged for 11 months. With vibrant red berry fruit, spice, and crushed flowers laced with a kiss of French oak, it is not only deftly crafted, but goes exceptionally well with food. From salads and crudo to duck, pork, and beef, this wine is a California stunner.” —Natalie Dial, co-owner and wine director, Tomat, Los Angeles
“The most underrated Pinot Noir is from South Africa, particularly from Walker Bay. The wines are just really well made and offer good value for their quality. Guests have always been pleasantly surprised every time they try a Pinot Noir from South Africa.” —Justin Chin, general manager and sommelier, The Happy Crane, San Francisco
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