7 Chardonnays You Should Try if You Like Big, Oaky Wines
Chardonnay has long been one of the world’s most popular wine grapes. Though it originated in Burgundy, the variety is now grown across every major wine region, and as it spread, many different vinification styles emerged. Despite its versatility, Chardonnay became synonymous with the heavily oaked, buttery style from California that dominated the market in the 1990s, resulting in the “Anything but Chardonnay” movement of drinkers set on avoiding the grape at all costs for fear of its intensely oaky flavors.
And while a new wave of Chardonnay is staking its claim among winemakers — one that heralds the grape’s brighter, fresher qualities — there are still many producers embracing its rich, oaky side. But it’s all about balance. While the wines that gave Chardonnay a bad rap lean too heavy into that big, buttery mouthfeel, there are some producers that nail the tension between bright fruit, crisp acidity, and oak influence.
We rounded up the best Chardonnays that display that classic oak character, without totally overwhelming the palate. We steered clear of butter-bombs, opting instead for those that walk the line between heft and elegance. For those looking to embrace Chardonnay’s silkier side, here are the best oaky, buttery Chardonnays.
Concannon Vineyard Reserve Chardonnay 2024
As one of the oldest family wineries in the Livermore Valley, Concannon has mastered the grapes that thrive on California’s Central Coast — one of which is Chardonnay. The palate is rich and buttery, but brought to life by tinges of bright fruit. In structure just as in flavor, Concannon strikes that balance: Though it clocks in at 14.1 percent, which is on the heftier end for the grape, the Reserve Chardonnay delivers a salivating acidity that brightens the ensemble all up.
Average price: $40
Rating: 93
Rombauer Carneros Chardonnay 2024
Rombauer is one of the pioneers of big, bold American Chardonnay, and the 2024 Carneros bottling lives up to its reputation. The Carneros AVA offers a cool climate that lends an incredible brightness to the palate, complementing its otherwise silky, rich mouthfeel. Rounding out the wine are notes of vanilla, almond, and ripe apples.
Average price: $42
Rating: 94
Desforges Suzanne’s Block Chardonnay 2024
Desforges is a family-owned winery in Sonoma County that farms its own estate. Among its plots are specific parcels named after members of the family. This Chardonnay from co-founder Suzanne’s block hits markets on an occasional basis — only when Suzanne and other family members deem the vintage worthy enough to drink at their own dinner table. Aged in French oak from the Louis Latour Cooperage in Burgundy, this single-barrel expression opens with an aromatic nose of apples, lemon, and vanilla. On the palate, a rich mouthfeel melds with a gripping acidity.
Average price: $58
Rating: 93
Soter Vineyards Estates Chardonnay 2022
Soter Vineyards is part of a wave of Willamette winemakers ushering American Chardonnay into its next era — one that celebrates the tension between a classic buttery profile and bright acidity. Soter’s Estates Chardonnay is the quintessence of this new-school style: It combines notes of bistro butter, oyster brine, herbs, and ripe fruit. All the while, a refreshing, almost salty acidity buttons this expression up.
Average price: $60
Rating: 96
Domaine Serene ‘Evenstad Reserve’ Chardonnay 2023
To make its Evenstad Reserve bottling, Domaine Serene identifies and blends the best barrels of Chardonnay from its cellar. The juice, sourced from the Willamette Valley’s Dundee Hills AVA, is aged for 13 months in a blend of new and used French oak, imparting a creamy texture and flavors of vanilla and salted butter. Cutting through that plush mouthfeel are notes of lemon curd and freshly cut grass.
Average price: $75
Rating: 97
Garden Creek Estate Clonal Selection Chardonnay 2022
Situated in California’s Alexander Valley, Garden Creek works with a number of Chardonnay clones. For its Estate Clonal Selection bottling, the winery first fermented six clones in individual French oak barrels before blending. On the nose, this Chardonnay is a bit of a red herring: Its creamy yet savory aromas suggest it’ll be a total butter-bomb, but the palate is much more balanced, adding acidity, crisp citrus fruit, and herbs to the mix.
Average price: $80
Rating: 96
St. Innocent Winery Enchanted Way Vineyard Triangle Block Chardonnay 2023
St. Innocent from Oregon’s Willamette Valley is lauded for its Pinot Noir, but it produces just-as stellar expressions of the red grape’s counterpart, Chardonnay. Coming from its high-altitude Enchanted Way vineyard, this Chardonnay — made with just a touch of new French oak — opens with stone fruit and citrus zest on the nose. The lingering palate brings notes of creamy lemon curd.
Average price: $80
Rating: 97
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