7 of the Best Chardonnays From Germany
Riesling is all but synonymous with German wine. It’s the most planted grape in Germany, accounting for almost a quarter of the country’s vineyard area. And while Riesling’s dominance is not about to change anytime soon, another white variety is becoming recognized for its quality and potential in Germany. The grape is none other than Chardonnay.
German Chardonnay is still a minor player, covering only about 3 percent of German vineyards. About 7,000 acres of it were under vine in 2023, but more of it is being planted every year. And with good reason. Many of the wines are spectacular and should gain traction as more people are exposed to them. And they satisfy the preferences of an increasing number of wine lovers.
For one thing, they have moderate levels of alcohol, with many in the 12 to 13 percent range. And most of the wines I tasted showed judicious use of oak, with the wood accenting rather than dominating. Because production is limited at this point, the wines are not inexpensive, with some in the $40 to $60 range. But the quality is instantly recognizable.
Chardonnay is grown primarily in the Rheinhessen, Pfalz, and Baden regions in the warmer southwest. And while Germany is still a cool-climate wine country, global warming has helped Chardonnay (and other varieties) achieve ripeness more easily.
“Germany put all their eggs in the Riesling basket, never thinking that Chardonnay could actually ripen,” says Collin Wagner, a sales manager with vom Boden, an importer of German wines. But now, in most years, Chardonnay does ripen. And the fruit in many of the wines is gorgeous, with ample acidity making them superbly refreshing and age-worthy.
Wagner says he believes Chardonnay is opening the door to Germany for more wine lovers because it’s simpler than Riesling to understand. Riesling, he says, “has this baggage of: ‘Is it dry? Is it off-dry? Is it shrill? I hate Riesling. I love Riesling. I don’t understand Riesling.’” Chardonnay, he maintains, “is more liked and lovable. And in a certain way it’s easier.”
While Chardonnay has a long history in Burgundy — the variety is thought to have originated there — it was only officially approved for planting in Germany in 1991. The wines have quickly become among the most exciting Chardonnays in the world. For some, the leanness of the wines calls to mind white Burgundies of the 1980s when that region had a cooler climate.
Here are seven of the best German Chardonnays:
Friedrich Becker Chardonnay 2025
This wine is slightly effervescent when first poured, but the spritz subsides with aeration and a complex Chardonnay emerges. There are lemon-lime, green apple, mint, and floral notes at first followed by touches of grapefruit, vanilla, and saline. The wine is aged in large oak casks so the wood influence is minimal. The fruit is both concentrated and refreshing. The vineyards are in Pfalz on the border with France’s Alsace.
Price: $27
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Lukas Hammelmann ‘Aus den Dörfern Z’ Chardonnay 2025
Balanced and memorable with concentrated, ripe green and red apple notes, hints of Meyer lemon, mandarin, honeysuckle, minerals, and a wisp of cumin seed. Light, focused, and unencumbered by much oak. Aus den Dörfern means “from the villages” and Z refers to Zeiskam, Lukas Hammelmann’s hometown in the Pfalz. Hammelmann’s 2024 Chardonnay Roter Berg, a richer, somewhat deeper wine, is also worth seeking out.
Price: $48
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Von Winning Chardonnay ‘Royale’ 2024
The fruit in this wine from Pfalz is concentrated but not cloying, with candied apple and pineapple aromas and flavors accented by herbs and baking spice notes. There’s a mineral hint and the oak is well integrated.
Price: $32
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Knewitz Chardonnay 2023
A flinty nose introduces this Chardonnay from Rheinhessen along with a wisp of oak-driven butterscotch. But those initial notes settle down as the wine opens up, revealing green apple, stone fruit, and citrus flavors. The wine is light, precise, and delightful. Knewitz uses organic practices.
Price: $42
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Jonas Dostert ‘Frost24’ Chardonnay 2024
This wine is from the Mosel region, where slate soils rule. But the grapes for this wine are grown in limestone. The wine is lean and nervy and aged in mostly used oak barrels, so the wood is there but subtle. It lands light-bodied on the palate, with green apple, tropical fruit, orange, and lemon notes.
Price: $44
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Andreas Durst Chardonnay 2024
This lovely fruit-driven wine is marked by yellow and green apple and tangerine notes along with hints of mint and cream. Andreas Durst farms organically and by hand in Pfalz. He uses old barrels to age the wine, so the wood influence is muted. It’s an unusual, small-production wine.
Price: $60
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Wasenhaus Chardonnay 2024
Subtle herb notes infuse this well-balanced Chardonnay from Baden with pear and apricot flavors and a subtle oak layer. A stony minerality punctuates the fruit, providing a texture that lasts through the long finish. It’s aged in both used oak barrels and stainless steel.
Price: $48
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Next up: Red and white wines from France’s Bergerac
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